How To Apply Mascara.

Photo credit Darren Black Make-up Victoria Bond @ Caren Agency Hair John MacPherson.

Photo credit Darren Black Make-up Victoria Bond @ Caren Agency Hair John MacPherson.

I’m trying to answer all the questions I’m so frequently asked as a make-up artist. I would also like my blog to become a place where people can come to get good solid advice.

Obviously the above image is editorial and have used a very exaggerated false lash for maximum effect. but I thought it would be a fun image to go alongside this post.

first of all I’m going to explain how to get lovely thick long lashes. I will then recommend my top four. If I recommend a product I either use it on shoots or its a personal favourite. Either way its been road tested and comes up to scratch.

So my steps to fabulous lashes

1. Always make sure you curl them first. This opens up the eye and makes lashes look instantly longer. Try to do this as close to the lash line as possible. Give the curlers a little squeeze and almost pump those lashes up! Shu Uemura eyelash curlers are very good from £15

2. Once the lashes are curled start on the mascara. Make sure the mascara isn’t too old. Try to change it every 3-4 months. This will ensure good results and less chance of getting an eye infection! Try not to pump the wand in and out into much as this lets in air and can dry the mascara out.

3. I like nice thick full lashes so I very rarely wipe any excess mascara on a tissue. But if you want a skinner more natural lash then get rid of the excess. Maybe use brown rather than black and just coat the top lashes.

4. Once you have the magic wand in your hand get working! so for the top lashes make sure you get the mascara right at the roots from there wiggle up in a zig zag motion covering the lashes from root to tip. Do this and repeat several times until you get the desired effect. I always say give them another coat even if you think you have finished.

5. If they do become a bit clumpy then always have a fan brush on hand to comb them through. Wiggle it through the lashes until smooth. Fan brush available from MAC £19.00

6. Some people do the bottom lashes first to prevent the top lashes going onto the eye. I always do the bottom lashes last I just make sure the top lashes are dry before I start the bottom.

7. So for bottom lashes turn the brush vertically and gently move the wand along the lashes coating them from root to tip. You may find you need the fan brush for the bottom lashes. This will help keep them clump free and in the right place.

8. If you do have very straight lashes very carefully re-curl them with the eyelash curlers once the mascara has been applied. be gentle and do this slowly as you don’t want to pull out any lashes.

9. chuck away those falsies who needs them now!

My Top four Mascara’s

1.  Maybelline the colossal go extreme mascara £6.99 Boots  (Boots always seem to have a 3 for 2 offer on) This is my all time favourite mascara its always in my kit. It’s cheap it gives full fat black lashes, it lasts all day and it doesn’t flake. The waterproof doesn’t budge!

2. Mac studio sculpt lash £14.50 I’m really loving the Mac mascara’s at the moment. I used them in Milan last season at the shows. This mascara in particular has an interesting brush that helps to define and create fullness.

3. Burberry bold lash mascara £23 net- a- porter. This is definitely more of a luxury mascara the packaging is super slick and would look good in your hand bag. Not only does the packaging look good the mascara is fantastic it coats the lashes and its easy to build up. It lasts well and doesn’t flake.

4. Dior show black out £24.50 John Lewis. This is an old favourite of mine. But it has been reformulated for a more intense thick black look. A luxury price but worth it!

Get The Look ‘Doing Time’ Vogue Italia

Photographer – Matilda Temperley

Stylist Katy Kingston @ Era, Hair and Make-up Victoria Bond using Paul Mitchell and Mac Pro, Model Morven @Premier

http://www.vogue.it/en/photovogue/Portfolio/0434dfbc-09eb-4baf-8e03-588819de37d9/Image

When I received the mood board for this shoot I was instantly excited, and began to design looks that would be fitting to the shoot. I wanted it to be slightly bonkers but beautiful Alice in wonderland meets clockwork orange at an English garden party….if you get my drift…

Morven the model has the most beautiful pale skin and lovely thick hair – perfect for the look I wanted to create.

Hair

I wanted to create a lot of fuzz a cloudy effect which I could then pin up and down make bigger, smaller and create shapes with it. Firstly at home I pre-curled hair wefts with small babyliss tongs just in case Morven’s hair needed filling. On the day I prepped Morven’s hair with Paul Mitchell Sculpting foam, I was very generous with this and completely covered the hair in it, I then dried it in with my Parlux hair dryer. I then used the small babyliss tongs to curl small sections from the root to the tip, spraying on Paul Mitchell Hold me tight before and after curling. Once I had curled all the hair I left it to set then started the make-up.

Make-up

Skin Prep – Cleansed with crealine Bioderma, moisturise with Astalift jelly (the perfect make-up base) lips prepped with Dr Lipp ( It’s important to condition the lips at the start of the make-up especially if the model has any dryness. 

Base – Mac strobe cream on highlighted areas. Chanel aqua Lumniere in 10 Clair this foundation is just amazing on super pale skin I love it. Under eye and any small blemishes Mac pro longwear concealer in nc15. Again I am in love with this product the coverage and finish is fantastic no other product needs to be added all day.

Brows – brushed up with Mac brow set in clear then filled with Mac slate eye shadow .

Eyes- graphic cat eye created with Mac Black track gel eye liner. No mascara on the top lashes just the bottom I used Maybelline one by one, I then placed a dot and a dash underneath the eye using the black track gel, then finished with a few long Eyelure individual lashes on the bottom lash line.

cheeks – contoured with Illamasqua cream pigment in hollow perfect on pale skin, highlighted with Fardel powder in silver. I used a lot of this as I really wanted the highlights to stand out.

lips – I used several different Mac lipsticks throughout the shoot ranging from silver glitter to matte orange.which is why it was so important to prep the lips first!

Later on in the shoot I added Bobbi Brown Longwear cream eye shadow in copper to the remaining part of the eye up to the eyebrow

after finishing the make-up I then went back to the hair I pulled out the curls and back combed added more Paul Mitchell hold me tight hair spray to create volume and fuzz. I then used sectioning clips to create different shapes with the hair throughout the shoot.

Have a go with this look and let me know how you get on!

Get Sliver Medallist Lizzie Armistead’s Adidas Village Wear look

A couple of weeks ago I was lucky enough to work with Lizzie Armistead modelling the Stella McCartney Adidas Village wear range. This was for the evening standard and shot in the Olympic village, as a member of the general public I was very lucky to get in! Lizzie was absolutely charming and a joy to make up here is a run down of the products I used.

I started by tying Lizzie’s hair back into a high pony tail I used Paul Mitchell Hold me tight hair spray to secure and keep away any fly away’s.

Skin prep – Cleanse with crealine Bioderma, moisturise with Astalift jelly (I find this gives the best base for make-up, it sinks in almost immediately) and leaves the skin lovely and plump and ready for foundation. 

Lizzie has amazing skin so I just used a light coverage of Mac Face and Body, Laura Mercier camoflarge concealer on the under eye and on any small blemishes/redness. I then set with a little bit of Mac prep and prime powder.

Eyebrows – groomed then filled in with a taupe pencil from Medina in Milan (my fav pencils)

Eyes- I used Bobbi Brown long wear cream eye shadow in slate just on the eyelid, I then used Laura Mercier eye caviare in Black on the top lash line , Bobbi Brown taupe eyshadow on the lower lash line,really blended to open up the eye, beige pencil on the inner water line then finished with two coats of Maybelline one by one volume express mascara in black, combing through each coat with a Mac fan brush.

Cheeks- Contoured with Mac’s Bone beige powder blush (another of my favs).

Lips- Dr Lipp for natural shine.

I think Lizzie looks lovely try this look for yourself it’s simple, quick and easy, let me know how you get on.Image

Get The Look – Eline Sports Luxe Shoot


Body
Rimmel Instant tan in golden- spray tan the whole body, use a powder puff to blend and buffer in. the last thing you want is a streaky body!
Face
Rimmel Instant tan gel matte – this I used on Elines face, to give her a bit of colour before foundation. I applied the gel with a foundation brush and gain made sure it was well blended.
Nails
Gosh Miss Grey nail varnish on fingers and toes – optional.
Mac Face and body in C4 (FB is my favourite foundation it gives the skin a great texture)
Laura Mercier camoflarge concealer in sc3 – mainly just for the under eye, but any redness etc that needs to be covered. Elines skin was pretty perfect! Remember the under eye goes from the inner corner of the eye to the outside of the eye. The inner corner of the eye can have a lot of darkness a bit of concealer here can really light up the eye area.
Eyes
Illamasqua brow cake – Gaze I just filled in the gaps with the powder.
Illamasqua cream eye shadow in nude on the eyelid.
Illamasqua cream eye shadow in Dual into the contour
Mac cream colour base in sepia with a sweep of Mac eyeshadow in gold mine over the top
Maybelline great lash Mascara in black two coats combed through with a fan brush.
Cheeks
Estee Lauder cream blush in tan – blended well just under the cheek bone for maximum lift.
Lips
Mac Lady Danger mixed with Mac impassioned lipstick applied not to perfectly after all the look is sports.
Stripes – Optional
Make Up Forever Greese in black and white applied with a finger.
On the shoot we had Glycerine mixed with water which we sprayed Eline with to create extra shine and sweat!
I didn’t use any powder as I wanted maximum shine, but if you do want do recreate this look I would advise powder on the t zone.
Let me know how you get on…..

Maybelline Gel Eye Liner

I wanted to try this new eyeliner to compare it to the Bobbi Brown long-lasting gel and the Mac black track. To be honest I wasn’t expecting much and I really only bought it because I liked the look for the brush.
For £.7.98 including the brush it’s a must have item. I have only tried it on myself so far, but I’m impressed. The gel glides beautifully and it doesn’t dry straight away giving you a bit of time to perfect the classic flick. The brush allows for accuracy and perfection.
It’s also fairly durable I have had the liner on all day and it’s still going strong. It’s warm outside and I would have expected some smudging.
I am impressed I give this eyeliner nine out of ten, I think it might be better than it’s more expensive competitors. Well done Maybelline!

Maybelline one by one Volume Express Mascara

Boots has Maybelline on 3 for 2 at the moment so it’s definately worth purchasing there.
Maybelline seems to bring out a new mascara every week its hard to keep up. I remember when it was only available in the states, and would get so excited when I managed to get friends to bring it over for me.
OK the Volume express one by one, firstly I like the fact the brush comes seperatley and you have to add them togther. I don’t think this has any benefit other than a gimic, it worked for me….Until I get on a shoot and I’m in a hurry and have to open a new mascara…
I like the brush it’s nice and fat in places, which allows you to load up the masara and is fine at the end to get those little hard to reach lashes. I think this mascara will be good for the spider lash trend, started by make-up supremo Pat McGrath. You can just keep on layering to create full thick lashes. I don’t think this would suit girls who like a fine lash….

Max Factor Xperience Volumising Mascara

I absolutely love this new mascara from Max factor. Thick, black, long, lovely lashes. the wand is short and plastic, and coats the lashes without clumping! It is also easy to remove. The new falsies volume effect mascara by Maybelline is also a winner. The scoop brush really grabs up the lashes and coats them, without clumping!

Monaco Grand Prix

It is that time of year when the Monaco grand prix kicks off bringing with it a circus of glitz, glamour and the biggest yachts ever this is a place where length and frontage really count.

Now I am not a fan of formula 1 I don’t get it to me it seems rather pointless almost like a dog chasing its tail accept its dangerous and expensive… I have had first hand experience of the Monaco grand prix and all I can say about the whole weekend was its noisy and stressful…

I was working of course as Monaco is really not my scene I’m not rich and I like to think I’m not tacky!! I think at one point Monaco was beautiful as old buildings can still be scene through the modern mirage that has been built up around the old soul of the town, its a shame really but progress is progress.

At the time I was working for Debeers, Diamond trading company and Steinmetz who wanted to use the glamorous backdrop to promote their diamonds. I have to say they had some amazing pieces needless to say security was high as one earring could be worth in excess of 100k! Steinmetz at the time owned a very large pink diamond and it was sensational very large and very beautiful apparently it can take years to cut a stone that large! I couldn’t resist touching it as I thought this is probably as close as I will ever come to a rock this size!!

Helena Christensen wore the pink and she looked amazing I bet she was nervous as that it one piece of jewellery not to be lost.

The Monaco look – A tan is essential but fake it the last thing a Monaco dolly wants is to age I suggest a St Tropez spray tan extra dark think George Hamilton. Remember more is more here and low maintenance girls need not apply full coverage is a must to be as flawless as a Debeers diamond I suggest applying Vita Luminere by Chanel with a brush then correct any problem areas like the under eye around the nose and chin with Laura Mercier camouflage concealer. Set this with a translucent powder Chanel Crystaline is perfect.

Eyes keep them sparkly and long wearing after all this is a party place use Bobbi Brown longwear cream shadow in Bellini all over the eye and right up to the brow bone follow with Burnished on the lid and into the socket line. Groom the eyebrows and fill in any gaps with an angled brush and powder suitable to your eyebrow colour, remember its usually two shades lighter than you think!! Curl the lashes, if you have straight lashes apply the mascara first then curl if not curl then apply two coats of Maybelline extreme lash mascara in black and opt for the waterproof!

Cheeks pop a bit of Penny Lane by Nars on the apples of the cheeks for a sexy glow… Lips I think should make a statement go for a bright fuchsia Rimmel do a lovely long lasting lipstick in their colour show off range go for shocking pink and make a statement. Just remember to carry the lippy and a compact with you for touch ups and watch the invites to the best parties just roll in!!

The Look

Lets get down to the serious business of make up now be warned I can talk for ours on this subject I am a make up geek! The over all look of the shoot is super glam we want the models to be glamazons. As I mentioned earlier I will be tanning them so they are bronzed beauties. Skin wise bronzed, dewy and highlighted to achieve this look I will be using Chanel Pro Luminere as a base well blended with a soft brush. I like to use a soft brush as I can really buff the product into the skin for a super airbrushed finish. To conceal and highlight I will be using Kevyn Aucoin skin sensual enhancer which I have to say is amazing I am completely in love with this product. It cost me a fortune to import it as you can only get it in America but I have to say it’s well worth it. My good friend and mentor James Molloy put me on to this product so big thanks there!!

I won’t go on too much if you have any questions about products and how to use them please feel free to leave a comment and I will be more than happy to help!

Colour wise I want to keep it bronzy and peachy with a purple lid. I like to use creams Mac cream colour bases are amazing products and leave a beautiful shiny finish that works so well on camera, for this shoot I will be using dark brown and sepia. First I will contour the eye with the browns so into the socket line and underneath eye to open it up, to increase the intensity of colour I follow with a dark brown eye shadow also by Mac. On the lid I use a purple cream eyes shadow by Illamasqua followed by a Purple Mac eye shadow. I fill the water lines of the eye top and bottom with a bronze brown pencil, Teddy by Mac one of my favourite colours. Underneath the eye I add a Chanel bronze eye shadow for extra intensity. I fill in the brows but softly as this look is about the eye and finish by curling the eyelashes and coating them with two coats of  Maybelline extreme lash mascara.

Cheeks I use a mac mineralize bronzer which gives great colour and shine the concealer has put in some highlight but I add to this with Macs cream colour base in Luna, I touch and press this into the skin… I then use a dark brown cream by make up forever to contour I do this to bring out the cheek bones and slim down the nose.

I add a highlight to the cupids bow on the lips using a beige pencil then mix a beige and peach lipstick gorgeous! When the shoot is published I will post the results!