How To Apply Mascara.

Photo credit Darren Black Make-up Victoria Bond @ Caren Agency Hair John MacPherson.

Photo credit Darren Black Make-up Victoria Bond @ Caren Agency Hair John MacPherson.

I’m trying to answer all the questions I’m so frequently asked as a make-up artist. I would also like my blog to become a place where people can come to get good solid advice.

Obviously the above image is editorial and have used a very exaggerated false lash for maximum effect. but I thought it would be a fun image to go alongside this post.

first of all I’m going to explain how to get lovely thick long lashes. I will then recommend my top four. If I recommend a product I either use it on shoots or its a personal favourite. Either way its been road tested and comes up to scratch.

So my steps to fabulous lashes

1. Always make sure you curl them first. This opens up the eye and makes lashes look instantly longer. Try to do this as close to the lash line as possible. Give the curlers a little squeeze and almost pump those lashes up! Shu Uemura eyelash curlers are very good from £15

2. Once the lashes are curled start on the mascara. Make sure the mascara isn’t too old. Try to change it every 3-4 months. This will ensure good results and less chance of getting an eye infection! Try not to pump the wand in and out into much as this lets in air and can dry the mascara out.

3. I like nice thick full lashes so I very rarely wipe any excess mascara on a tissue. But if you want a skinner more natural lash then get rid of the excess. Maybe use brown rather than black and just coat the top lashes.

4. Once you have the magic wand in your hand get working! so for the top lashes make sure you get the mascara right at the roots from there wiggle up in a zig zag motion covering the lashes from root to tip. Do this and repeat several times until you get the desired effect. I always say give them another coat even if you think you have finished.

5. If they do become a bit clumpy then always have a fan brush on hand to comb them through. Wiggle it through the lashes until smooth. Fan brush available from MAC £19.00

6. Some people do the bottom lashes first to prevent the top lashes going onto the eye. I always do the bottom lashes last I just make sure the top lashes are dry before I start the bottom.

7. So for bottom lashes turn the brush vertically and gently move the wand along the lashes coating them from root to tip. You may find you need the fan brush for the bottom lashes. This will help keep them clump free and in the right place.

8. If you do have very straight lashes very carefully re-curl them with the eyelash curlers once the mascara has been applied. be gentle and do this slowly as you don’t want to pull out any lashes.

9. chuck away those falsies who needs them now!

My Top four Mascara’s

1.  Maybelline the colossal go extreme mascara £6.99 Boots  (Boots always seem to have a 3 for 2 offer on) This is my all time favourite mascara its always in my kit. It’s cheap it gives full fat black lashes, it lasts all day and it doesn’t flake. The waterproof doesn’t budge!

2. Mac studio sculpt lash £14.50 I’m really loving the Mac mascara’s at the moment. I used them in Milan last season at the shows. This mascara in particular has an interesting brush that helps to define and create fullness.

3. Burberry bold lash mascara £23 net- a- porter. This is definitely more of a luxury mascara the packaging is super slick and would look good in your hand bag. Not only does the packaging look good the mascara is fantastic it coats the lashes and its easy to build up. It lasts well and doesn’t flake.

4. Dior show black out £24.50 John Lewis. This is an old favourite of mine. But it has been reformulated for a more intense thick black look. A luxury price but worth it!

Maybelline one by one Volume Express Mascara

Boots has Maybelline on 3 for 2 at the moment so it’s definately worth purchasing there.
Maybelline seems to bring out a new mascara every week its hard to keep up. I remember when it was only available in the states, and would get so excited when I managed to get friends to bring it over for me.
OK the Volume express one by one, firstly I like the fact the brush comes seperatley and you have to add them togther. I don’t think this has any benefit other than a gimic, it worked for me….Until I get on a shoot and I’m in a hurry and have to open a new mascara…
I like the brush it’s nice and fat in places, which allows you to load up the masara and is fine at the end to get those little hard to reach lashes. I think this mascara will be good for the spider lash trend, started by make-up supremo Pat McGrath. You can just keep on layering to create full thick lashes. I don’t think this would suit girls who like a fine lash….

Max Factor Xperience Volumising Mascara

I absolutely love this new mascara from Max factor. Thick, black, long, lovely lashes. the wand is short and plastic, and coats the lashes without clumping! It is also easy to remove. The new falsies volume effect mascara by Maybelline is also a winner. The scoop brush really grabs up the lashes and coats them, without clumping!

How to Apply Fake Lashes

I thought after yesterdays little shoot it would be nice to give my top tips for applying fake lashes.

1. first of all apply your make up as usual the lash should be one of the last steps in your routine.

2. Make sure you have curled and mascara’d your lashes I find this makes applying eyelashes much easier.

3. Use a good quality glue  Duo in clear is the best it holds all day and is easily removed.

4. Remove the lash from the packet some are easier to remove than others, Once removed the lash can be a bit straight if so wrap it around a pencil or make up brush to get the curved shape required to fit the eye.

5. Measure the eyelash against the eye as it may need trimming always trim from the outside although yesterday some of the lashes had details on the outside of the eye, so use your common sense!!

6. Place a small amount of Duo on the back of the hand and leave for a minute, then take the end of a small make up brush and coat the top of the strip in glue (don’t over do it) waft the lash about a bit then apply using tweezers. Just drop the lash into the lash line and wiggle until its in place. Make sure both of the ends are secured!

7. If using individual lashes which is my preferred lash dip the small tip of the lash into the glue and insert where necessary between mascara’d lashes, for a cat eye look just apply to the outside corner of the lashes, for a more fuller feathery look apply to the whole eye. Remember towards the inner part of the eye you may want to use shorter inserts.

8. Once all lashes are fixed apply a coat of mascara to fully blend the lashes together again with some of the fancy lashes this may not be possible!

9. Don’t forget to mascara the bottom lashes.

10. Pop a little bit of black Bobbi Brown long wear gel eyeliner on the eyelash band to cover it  perfection!

Don’t worry if you can’t do this at first it does take a bit of practice to get it right have fun an experiment with styles and lengths and see what works best for you!