Photo credit Andres De Lara. Make- up Victoria Bond @ Caren
I’m going to explain how I apply foundation this pretty much works for most skin with a few adjustments. I always make sure I throughly prep the skin I like to do this myself I rarely get assistants to do it. I like to get the feel of the skin and apparently I have healing hands.
This prep is so important you will never get a beautiful base without it! So what do I do?
I. Cleanse of course make sure all make-up and dirt is removed.
2. Facial oil massage I spend at least five minutes manipulating the skin with the facial oil. Models/ Celebrities really appreciate this time and care. The skin loves it and literally comes to life.
3. I then put on a moisturiser the amount depends on the skin and how it’s feeling. Generally you can tell if the skin needs more or less. If you have applied too much moisturiser it will sit on top of the skin. Leave it five mins if its still sitting on top tissue it off.
4. Lip balm the lips.
So now the skin is ready for the base. I will do another post on all the different types of foundation on the market.
I apply foundation with with either a standard foundation brush, a soft rounded brush or my fingers. It depends on what foundation I’m using and the texture of the skin. Its worth experimenting to see which works for you!
Apply small amounts at a time never overload the brush or face with product. Work from the inside out. Try to apply in natural day light or a well lit room.
I will be honest I only really like liquid foundation. The only dry formula foundation I use is the Bobbi Brown sticks and I tend to only use them for grooming and darker skin tones. This is a personal choice as I like super dewy natural looking skin. I try to use very little base and concealer. Never cover good skin! If the skin isn’t good be clever with coverage.
I look at the skin and see where the foundation is needed, covering any redness around the nose on the chin and darkness around the under eye. Sometimes I might cover the whole face with a very light coverage just for colour and finish.
The lighter more liquid foundations such as Mac Face and body are best applied with a standard foundation brush. A slightly thicker liquid foundation such as the Burberry healthy glow works really well with a soft rounded brush. This brush really allows you to buff product into the skin.
Foundation shouldn’t be seen when people look at you they should just see perfect skin. Perfect skin will look great with a light coverage. If its bad follow the same steps but spot conceal in the areas that need it with a soft brush. Mac mineralise powder is really good to finish off bad skin. It smooths over any imperfections and lasts well.
Once the foundation is on I would powder the t zone only with Jurlique rose silk powder. I’m not a big fan of powder as I find it can make the skin look heavy.
I will do another post on concealers and powders shortly.
How to chose the right colour foundation.
Generally department stores have bad lighting so when you go to get colour matched there is usually a yellow light beaming down on you. This can effect your colour matching, but a well trained make-up artist should be aware of this. Always try the foundation on your face. The skin is different colours on the hands and neck. Try three similar colours and see which one disappears and blends into the skin. That’s he one to take! If you are in between colours do go lighter its more flattering. Be aware that the skin will change colour in summer and winter. It’s best to have two different colours for season changes.
I basically like skin to look like skin not over made up!
So as I’m so fussy here are my favs
1. My ulitmate – Mac face and body £21.50 mac.co.uk. I have used this my whole career I LOVE it. its lightweight, dewy, waterproof, it can be used on the body, the colours are amazing. It works well on anybody particularly good on mature skin it puts life into it.
2. Chanel Vitalumiere £30 chanel.com This has slightly more coverage than face and body but it still has that lovely dewy finish I love. This is popular with celebrities as its luxe and they like the feel of it. This would work well for a wedding or a big event.
3. Mac Pro longwear foundation £25 mac.co.uk I use this on commercials where the base as to last all day and I might not. be able to step in for touch ups.I use the soft round brush to buffer it in.
4. Mac Mineralize moisture foundation £28 mac.co.uk I use this on super perfect skin on camera it looks incredible. Its definitely not for problem skin as it reflects any blemishes.
5. Burberry fresh glow foundation £35 burberry.com. This is new in my kit but I really like it. It has more coverage than my normal foundations but it looks really beautiful with a heavy moisturiser underneath and buffered in with the round brush. Lovely formula and great colours. It’s quite easy to use and there would be little concealing needed after using it.
Hope this helps VB.xx