How To Apply Concealer.

Photo credit Cameron James Wilson. Hair and Make-up Victoria Bond @ Caren.

Photo credit Cameron James Wilson. Hair and Make-up Victoria Bond @ Caren.

So if you have read my other posts you now should have a fabulous new skin care regime and a new foundation. You should also be able to apply the foundation! so once you have a nice base the next step is to conceal. I have several different concealers in my kit depending on skin type, age and colour. I will list my favourites later.

Most people need a little bit extra on top of foundation/tinted moisturiser/bare skin. If I have a model with amazing skin I may only use concealer where it’s needed. Always remember don’t cover good skin! For those with more mature skin the more make-up you wear the older you will look.

Under eye

This is the number one place that nearly everybody needs a bit of help. If the darkness is really bad a colour corrector maybe needed as a first step. on white skin with dark purplish marks apply a light peach. Bobbi Brown does great creamy colour correctors. I use a Mac 224 brush to softly buffer in the concealer so it becomes part of the skin. I use this method for all under eye concealing. If you have black or Asian skin a orange or mustard yellow corrector with help with darkness. Once you have applied a colour corrector then move onto a normal concealer. (you may not need to colour correct just conceal) In order to knock out dark circles the concealer must be two shades lighter than your foundation/skin colour. This will brighten and lift the eye area and also start the contouring process. I always conceal in a triangle shape from the start of the eye to the end. But I don’t take the concealer right up to the lash line as this can bring the eye down. I do add a bit to the inner corner. if the eye still isn’t popping I may add a bit of Touch Eclat or Mac mineralise powder for extra ping. I then waft a tiny amount of powder over to set. Do not go too light on the under eye as this will look ridiculous and glow on pictures!

Nose, Chin, Forehead.

Using the same 224 brush but different concealer I usually use Laura Mercier secret concealer. I cover any redness if any on nose, chin and forehead. Using the same gentle buffering method. You should see perfect skin not product! This should be roughly the same colour as your foundation.

Spots

We all get them from time to time some of us all the time! if you do have an issue with them I always recommend going to see a dermatologist and getting your hormone levels checked at the Doctors. Bad skin shouldn’t be suffered! So I  like to use either the Laura Mercier that I mentioned above or a Mac pro long wear. I use the same buffering method as above with the 224. I find using a concealer one shade lighter than the foundation the best it seems to knock out the redness and blend in better. I may pat, pat with the brush until it looks right. Of course you can do nothing about covering raised spot. I do believe you can have them injected with hydrocortisone to get rid! But i think thats extreme!

If you wanted to make your nose look smaller a line of concealer down the bridge of the nose could do this. Just make sure you blend well. This can also be done on the chin and forehead. I will cover contouring and highlighting in another post!

Anything else I don’t like the look of I just waft the magic 224 over it!

My Top Five Concealers

1. Mac Pro Longwear concealer £17 maccosmetics.co.uk This is my fav I use it on shoots all the time. It has great coverage, longevity and colour. Its great on young skin not so great on more mature skin.

2. Laura Mercier camouflage concealer £26.50 Space Nk. This comes with a colour corrector on one side and the concealer on the other so very handy. This concealer is slightly dryer but also works well on the face and under the eye. If applied correctly i.e. buffered in it works well on young and old skin. This is a good buy as its a good all rounder.

3 Bobbi Brown Creamy concealer £19 This is great on more mature skin but again it needs to be buffered in to get the best from it. Its also good on tattoo’s.

4. Estee Lauder Maximum Cover £26.55 Debenhams This is a real favourite in fashion and at the shows. Its actually a foundation but a full coverage one. but used as a concealer especially on good skin it looks incredible. The camera loves it! I personally use this on my under eye, around my nose and chin.

5. YSL Touche Eclat £25 House of Fraser. I use this as a highlighter or if the under eye needs a bit of extra ping. Used on its own to conceal its very weak. This one needs to be part of a team for maximum effect. I would use this on top of cheek bones, down bridge of the nose, bow of lip sides of forehead and under eye.

Hope this helps!

VB.xx

Get Sliver Medallist Lizzie Armistead’s Adidas Village Wear look

A couple of weeks ago I was lucky enough to work with Lizzie Armistead modelling the Stella McCartney Adidas Village wear range. This was for the evening standard and shot in the Olympic village, as a member of the general public I was very lucky to get in! Lizzie was absolutely charming and a joy to make up here is a run down of the products I used.

I started by tying Lizzie’s hair back into a high pony tail I used Paul Mitchell Hold me tight hair spray to secure and keep away any fly away’s.

Skin prep – Cleanse with crealine Bioderma, moisturise with Astalift jelly (I find this gives the best base for make-up, it sinks in almost immediately) and leaves the skin lovely and plump and ready for foundation. 

Lizzie has amazing skin so I just used a light coverage of Mac Face and Body, Laura Mercier camoflarge concealer on the under eye and on any small blemishes/redness. I then set with a little bit of Mac prep and prime powder.

Eyebrows – groomed then filled in with a taupe pencil from Medina in Milan (my fav pencils)

Eyes- I used Bobbi Brown long wear cream eye shadow in slate just on the eyelid, I then used Laura Mercier eye caviare in Black on the top lash line , Bobbi Brown taupe eyshadow on the lower lash line,really blended to open up the eye, beige pencil on the inner water line then finished with two coats of Maybelline one by one volume express mascara in black, combing through each coat with a Mac fan brush.

Cheeks- Contoured with Mac’s Bone beige powder blush (another of my favs).

Lips- Dr Lipp for natural shine.

I think Lizzie looks lovely try this look for yourself it’s simple, quick and easy, let me know how you get on.Image

Get The Look – Eline Sports Luxe Shoot


Body
Rimmel Instant tan in golden- spray tan the whole body, use a powder puff to blend and buffer in. the last thing you want is a streaky body!
Face
Rimmel Instant tan gel matte – this I used on Elines face, to give her a bit of colour before foundation. I applied the gel with a foundation brush and gain made sure it was well blended.
Nails
Gosh Miss Grey nail varnish on fingers and toes – optional.
Mac Face and body in C4 (FB is my favourite foundation it gives the skin a great texture)
Laura Mercier camoflarge concealer in sc3 – mainly just for the under eye, but any redness etc that needs to be covered. Elines skin was pretty perfect! Remember the under eye goes from the inner corner of the eye to the outside of the eye. The inner corner of the eye can have a lot of darkness a bit of concealer here can really light up the eye area.
Eyes
Illamasqua brow cake – Gaze I just filled in the gaps with the powder.
Illamasqua cream eye shadow in nude on the eyelid.
Illamasqua cream eye shadow in Dual into the contour
Mac cream colour base in sepia with a sweep of Mac eyeshadow in gold mine over the top
Maybelline great lash Mascara in black two coats combed through with a fan brush.
Cheeks
Estee Lauder cream blush in tan – blended well just under the cheek bone for maximum lift.
Lips
Mac Lady Danger mixed with Mac impassioned lipstick applied not to perfectly after all the look is sports.
Stripes – Optional
Make Up Forever Greese in black and white applied with a finger.
On the shoot we had Glycerine mixed with water which we sprayed Eline with to create extra shine and sweat!
I didn’t use any powder as I wanted maximum shine, but if you do want do recreate this look I would advise powder on the t zone.
Let me know how you get on…..

Best Airport Buy’s

If you are off on your hols soon and want a list of best buys, like my friend Emma then read on.
1. Chanel Sublimage a total treat, really luxe but knock a naught off to your partner.
2. Laura Mercier tinted moisturizer, a nice alternative to foundation for your hols.
3. Mac Bronzer, to pump up the glow.
4. YSL touch eclat Y not this is a cult classic concealer, although I find it works better as a highlighter.
5. Dior show Mascara in waterproof to keep your lashes full by the pool.
6. Bobbi Brown long lasting cream eyeshadow in Burnished. These creams are fool proof and can be applied with a finger and they do last all day.
7. Lancome juicy tubes these gorg glosses are the epitomey of summer, and they tast great to. Go for any colour or better still get the mini multipack!

Yoga Bunny

My very good friend Peter Breen is off to shoot a very glamorous Yoga video in the south of France unfortunately I am unable to go with him to do the male grooming so here are my tips for keeping protected, gorgeous and shiny in the sun….

1. Apply a high factor suncreen Lancaster sun sport multi zone cream stick in spf 30 £20 will be perfect for the face.

2.Cover the entire body in Lancaster sun sport multi protection express mist spf 30 £20. Make sure the sunscreen is applied at least 30 minutes before going out in the sun this gives the product chance to sink in.

Both of these products are water and sweat resistant as it will be very hot and the yoga master will be working very hard.

3.A little bit of concealing will be required to cover any imperfections so after applying the sunscreen and letting it settle in to the skin, this can be done with Laura Mercier Camouflage concealer as it is durable and long lasting.

4. To keep the concealer in place I would spritz final seal by Ben Nye to keep the concealer in place powder isn’t going to work!

5. The look of the video is super sexy and shiny so to finish liberally spritz Lancaster satin bronze dry oil spf6 all over the body this may need to be done several times during the shoot, this product also enhances the tan…

6. I would also suggest reapplying the factor 30 half way through the day even if it means having to shower and start the whole process again….It’s just to make sure the yoga teacher is fully protected throughout the day as too much sun can be devastating!

House of Fraser have a 3 for 2 offer on at the moment on all Lancaster products!

Have a great shoot!!

The Look

The look I created yesterday was dark and sexy taking references from the supermodels in the nineties. In fact this was the time I started to notice fashion so it was reminiscent of my teens pouring over Vogue magazines in my bedroom.

Pau had simply gorgeous skin with a lovely little smattering of freckles that I wanted to highlight and not cover, I used Mac’s Face and body foundation in c3 as it has a really sheer coverage.  If the skins good don’t put too much on it! I used Laura Mercier camouflage concealer on the under eye and to highlight I set the base with Mac’s Prep and prime making sure this was blended in with a large soft brush.

This look is all about the eye and brow. I started with the brow exaggerating it and defining it with Illamasqua’s brow cake in glaze which gave a nice dark finish. I then started on the eye I used a Bourjois Kohl pencil on the water line top and bottom I then used an angled brush to really get the kohl into the lash line and just below. I then applied Mac cream colour base in Antique gold to the lid and into the socket line I then used Nars cream eyeshadow in gold rush to the front of the eye and tear duct I bumped up the colour with a Mac gold eye shadow in the centre of the eye. Using another cream colour base in dark brown I filled in the socket line and beneath the eye I then used Mac black track on the outer part of the lid and followed with black powder to create a sexy cat eyed look.

Cheeks I used a Make up forever brown cream to contour under the cheek bone on the cheeks I used a Mac mineralize blush in peach and then highlighted with luna cream colour base.

I then curled Pau’s eyelashes and added two coats of stilla Mascara I left the eyelashes quite clumpy to make it look dirty sexy.

After highlighting the lip on the cupids bow with a beige pencil I then added lots of a lip gloss in a light brown colour super sexy.

Marc set the hair in pin curls and back combed to create Pau’s super luxe hair