Get The Look ‘Doing Time’ Vogue Italia

Photographer – Matilda Temperley

Stylist Katy Kingston @ Era, Hair and Make-up Victoria Bond using Paul Mitchell and Mac Pro, Model Morven @Premier

http://www.vogue.it/en/photovogue/Portfolio/0434dfbc-09eb-4baf-8e03-588819de37d9/Image

When I received the mood board for this shoot I was instantly excited, and began to design looks that would be fitting to the shoot. I wanted it to be slightly bonkers but beautiful Alice in wonderland meets clockwork orange at an English garden party….if you get my drift…

Morven the model has the most beautiful pale skin and lovely thick hair – perfect for the look I wanted to create.

Hair

I wanted to create a lot of fuzz a cloudy effect which I could then pin up and down make bigger, smaller and create shapes with it. Firstly at home I pre-curled hair wefts with small babyliss tongs just in case Morven’s hair needed filling. On the day I prepped Morven’s hair with Paul Mitchell Sculpting foam, I was very generous with this and completely covered the hair in it, I then dried it in with my Parlux hair dryer. I then used the small babyliss tongs to curl small sections from the root to the tip, spraying on Paul Mitchell Hold me tight before and after curling. Once I had curled all the hair I left it to set then started the make-up.

Make-up

Skin Prep – Cleansed with crealine Bioderma, moisturise with Astalift jelly (the perfect make-up base) lips prepped with Dr Lipp ( It’s important to condition the lips at the start of the make-up especially if the model has any dryness. 

Base – Mac strobe cream on highlighted areas. Chanel aqua Lumniere in 10 Clair this foundation is just amazing on super pale skin I love it. Under eye and any small blemishes Mac pro longwear concealer in nc15. Again I am in love with this product the coverage and finish is fantastic no other product needs to be added all day.

Brows – brushed up with Mac brow set in clear then filled with Mac slate eye shadow .

Eyes- graphic cat eye created with Mac Black track gel eye liner. No mascara on the top lashes just the bottom I used Maybelline one by one, I then placed a dot and a dash underneath the eye using the black track gel, then finished with a few long Eyelure individual lashes on the bottom lash line.

cheeks – contoured with Illamasqua cream pigment in hollow perfect on pale skin, highlighted with Fardel powder in silver. I used a lot of this as I really wanted the highlights to stand out.

lips – I used several different Mac lipsticks throughout the shoot ranging from silver glitter to matte orange.which is why it was so important to prep the lips first!

Later on in the shoot I added Bobbi Brown Longwear cream eye shadow in copper to the remaining part of the eye up to the eyebrow

after finishing the make-up I then went back to the hair I pulled out the curls and back combed added more Paul Mitchell hold me tight hair spray to create volume and fuzz. I then used sectioning clips to create different shapes with the hair throughout the shoot.

Have a go with this look and let me know how you get on!

Get The Look – Eline Sports Luxe Shoot


Body
Rimmel Instant tan in golden- spray tan the whole body, use a powder puff to blend and buffer in. the last thing you want is a streaky body!
Face
Rimmel Instant tan gel matte – this I used on Elines face, to give her a bit of colour before foundation. I applied the gel with a foundation brush and gain made sure it was well blended.
Nails
Gosh Miss Grey nail varnish on fingers and toes – optional.
Mac Face and body in C4 (FB is my favourite foundation it gives the skin a great texture)
Laura Mercier camoflarge concealer in sc3 – mainly just for the under eye, but any redness etc that needs to be covered. Elines skin was pretty perfect! Remember the under eye goes from the inner corner of the eye to the outside of the eye. The inner corner of the eye can have a lot of darkness a bit of concealer here can really light up the eye area.
Eyes
Illamasqua brow cake – Gaze I just filled in the gaps with the powder.
Illamasqua cream eye shadow in nude on the eyelid.
Illamasqua cream eye shadow in Dual into the contour
Mac cream colour base in sepia with a sweep of Mac eyeshadow in gold mine over the top
Maybelline great lash Mascara in black two coats combed through with a fan brush.
Cheeks
Estee Lauder cream blush in tan – blended well just under the cheek bone for maximum lift.
Lips
Mac Lady Danger mixed with Mac impassioned lipstick applied not to perfectly after all the look is sports.
Stripes – Optional
Make Up Forever Greese in black and white applied with a finger.
On the shoot we had Glycerine mixed with water which we sprayed Eline with to create extra shine and sweat!
I didn’t use any powder as I wanted maximum shine, but if you do want do recreate this look I would advise powder on the t zone.
Let me know how you get on…..

The Look

The look I created yesterday was dark and sexy taking references from the supermodels in the nineties. In fact this was the time I started to notice fashion so it was reminiscent of my teens pouring over Vogue magazines in my bedroom.

Pau had simply gorgeous skin with a lovely little smattering of freckles that I wanted to highlight and not cover, I used Mac’s Face and body foundation in c3 as it has a really sheer coverage.  If the skins good don’t put too much on it! I used Laura Mercier camouflage concealer on the under eye and to highlight I set the base with Mac’s Prep and prime making sure this was blended in with a large soft brush.

This look is all about the eye and brow. I started with the brow exaggerating it and defining it with Illamasqua’s brow cake in glaze which gave a nice dark finish. I then started on the eye I used a Bourjois Kohl pencil on the water line top and bottom I then used an angled brush to really get the kohl into the lash line and just below. I then applied Mac cream colour base in Antique gold to the lid and into the socket line I then used Nars cream eyeshadow in gold rush to the front of the eye and tear duct I bumped up the colour with a Mac gold eye shadow in the centre of the eye. Using another cream colour base in dark brown I filled in the socket line and beneath the eye I then used Mac black track on the outer part of the lid and followed with black powder to create a sexy cat eyed look.

Cheeks I used a Make up forever brown cream to contour under the cheek bone on the cheeks I used a Mac mineralize blush in peach and then highlighted with luna cream colour base.

I then curled Pau’s eyelashes and added two coats of stilla Mascara I left the eyelashes quite clumpy to make it look dirty sexy.

After highlighting the lip on the cupids bow with a beige pencil I then added lots of a lip gloss in a light brown colour super sexy.

Marc set the hair in pin curls and back combed to create Pau’s super luxe hair

The Look

Lets get down to the serious business of make up now be warned I can talk for ours on this subject I am a make up geek! The over all look of the shoot is super glam we want the models to be glamazons. As I mentioned earlier I will be tanning them so they are bronzed beauties. Skin wise bronzed, dewy and highlighted to achieve this look I will be using Chanel Pro Luminere as a base well blended with a soft brush. I like to use a soft brush as I can really buff the product into the skin for a super airbrushed finish. To conceal and highlight I will be using Kevyn Aucoin skin sensual enhancer which I have to say is amazing I am completely in love with this product. It cost me a fortune to import it as you can only get it in America but I have to say it’s well worth it. My good friend and mentor James Molloy put me on to this product so big thanks there!!

I won’t go on too much if you have any questions about products and how to use them please feel free to leave a comment and I will be more than happy to help!

Colour wise I want to keep it bronzy and peachy with a purple lid. I like to use creams Mac cream colour bases are amazing products and leave a beautiful shiny finish that works so well on camera, for this shoot I will be using dark brown and sepia. First I will contour the eye with the browns so into the socket line and underneath eye to open it up, to increase the intensity of colour I follow with a dark brown eye shadow also by Mac. On the lid I use a purple cream eyes shadow by Illamasqua followed by a Purple Mac eye shadow. I fill the water lines of the eye top and bottom with a bronze brown pencil, Teddy by Mac one of my favourite colours. Underneath the eye I add a Chanel bronze eye shadow for extra intensity. I fill in the brows but softly as this look is about the eye and finish by curling the eyelashes and coating them with two coats of  Maybelline extreme lash mascara.

Cheeks I use a mac mineralize bronzer which gives great colour and shine the concealer has put in some highlight but I add to this with Macs cream colour base in Luna, I touch and press this into the skin… I then use a dark brown cream by make up forever to contour I do this to bring out the cheek bones and slim down the nose.

I add a highlight to the cupids bow on the lips using a beige pencil then mix a beige and peach lipstick gorgeous! When the shoot is published I will post the results!