How To Apply Concealer.

Photo credit Cameron James Wilson. Hair and Make-up Victoria Bond @ Caren.

Photo credit Cameron James Wilson. Hair and Make-up Victoria Bond @ Caren.

So if you have read my other posts you now should have a fabulous new skin care regime and a new foundation. You should also be able to apply the foundation! so once you have a nice base the next step is to conceal. I have several different concealers in my kit depending on skin type, age and colour. I will list my favourites later.

Most people need a little bit extra on top of foundation/tinted moisturiser/bare skin. If I have a model with amazing skin I may only use concealer where it’s needed. Always remember don’t cover good skin! For those with more mature skin the more make-up you wear the older you will look.

Under eye

This is the number one place that nearly everybody needs a bit of help. If the darkness is really bad a colour corrector maybe needed as a first step. on white skin with dark purplish marks apply a light peach. Bobbi Brown does great creamy colour correctors. I use a Mac 224 brush to softly buffer in the concealer so it becomes part of the skin. I use this method for all under eye concealing. If you have black or Asian skin a orange or mustard yellow corrector with help with darkness. Once you have applied a colour corrector then move onto a normal concealer. (you may not need to colour correct just conceal) In order to knock out dark circles the concealer must be two shades lighter than your foundation/skin colour. This will brighten and lift the eye area and also start the contouring process. I always conceal in a triangle shape from the start of the eye to the end. But I don’t take the concealer right up to the lash line as this can bring the eye down. I do add a bit to the inner corner. if the eye still isn’t popping I may add a bit of Touch Eclat or Mac mineralise powder for extra ping. I then waft a tiny amount of powder over to set. Do not go too light on the under eye as this will look ridiculous and glow on pictures!

Nose, Chin, Forehead.

Using the same 224 brush but different concealer I usually use Laura Mercier secret concealer. I cover any redness if any on nose, chin and forehead. Using the same gentle buffering method. You should see perfect skin not product! This should be roughly the same colour as your foundation.

Spots

We all get them from time to time some of us all the time! if you do have an issue with them I always recommend going to see a dermatologist and getting your hormone levels checked at the Doctors. Bad skin shouldn’t be suffered! So I  like to use either the Laura Mercier that I mentioned above or a Mac pro long wear. I use the same buffering method as above with the 224. I find using a concealer one shade lighter than the foundation the best it seems to knock out the redness and blend in better. I may pat, pat with the brush until it looks right. Of course you can do nothing about covering raised spot. I do believe you can have them injected with hydrocortisone to get rid! But i think thats extreme!

If you wanted to make your nose look smaller a line of concealer down the bridge of the nose could do this. Just make sure you blend well. This can also be done on the chin and forehead. I will cover contouring and highlighting in another post!

Anything else I don’t like the look of I just waft the magic 224 over it!

My Top Five Concealers

1. Mac Pro Longwear concealer £17 maccosmetics.co.uk This is my fav I use it on shoots all the time. It has great coverage, longevity and colour. Its great on young skin not so great on more mature skin.

2. Laura Mercier camouflage concealer £26.50 Space Nk. This comes with a colour corrector on one side and the concealer on the other so very handy. This concealer is slightly dryer but also works well on the face and under the eye. If applied correctly i.e. buffered in it works well on young and old skin. This is a good buy as its a good all rounder.

3 Bobbi Brown Creamy concealer £19 This is great on more mature skin but again it needs to be buffered in to get the best from it. Its also good on tattoo’s.

4. Estee Lauder Maximum Cover £26.55 Debenhams This is a real favourite in fashion and at the shows. Its actually a foundation but a full coverage one. but used as a concealer especially on good skin it looks incredible. The camera loves it! I personally use this on my under eye, around my nose and chin.

5. YSL Touche Eclat £25 House of Fraser. I use this as a highlighter or if the under eye needs a bit of extra ping. Used on its own to conceal its very weak. This one needs to be part of a team for maximum effect. I would use this on top of cheek bones, down bridge of the nose, bow of lip sides of forehead and under eye.

Hope this helps!

VB.xx

Get The Look – Eline Sports Luxe Shoot


Body
Rimmel Instant tan in golden- spray tan the whole body, use a powder puff to blend and buffer in. the last thing you want is a streaky body!
Face
Rimmel Instant tan gel matte – this I used on Elines face, to give her a bit of colour before foundation. I applied the gel with a foundation brush and gain made sure it was well blended.
Nails
Gosh Miss Grey nail varnish on fingers and toes – optional.
Mac Face and body in C4 (FB is my favourite foundation it gives the skin a great texture)
Laura Mercier camoflarge concealer in sc3 – mainly just for the under eye, but any redness etc that needs to be covered. Elines skin was pretty perfect! Remember the under eye goes from the inner corner of the eye to the outside of the eye. The inner corner of the eye can have a lot of darkness a bit of concealer here can really light up the eye area.
Eyes
Illamasqua brow cake – Gaze I just filled in the gaps with the powder.
Illamasqua cream eye shadow in nude on the eyelid.
Illamasqua cream eye shadow in Dual into the contour
Mac cream colour base in sepia with a sweep of Mac eyeshadow in gold mine over the top
Maybelline great lash Mascara in black two coats combed through with a fan brush.
Cheeks
Estee Lauder cream blush in tan – blended well just under the cheek bone for maximum lift.
Lips
Mac Lady Danger mixed with Mac impassioned lipstick applied not to perfectly after all the look is sports.
Stripes – Optional
Make Up Forever Greese in black and white applied with a finger.
On the shoot we had Glycerine mixed with water which we sprayed Eline with to create extra shine and sweat!
I didn’t use any powder as I wanted maximum shine, but if you do want do recreate this look I would advise powder on the t zone.
Let me know how you get on…..

True Blue – How To Wear It Well

Make a bold summer statement with lovely hues of blues and greens, be bold, be brave…..

1.       Pale skinned girls should keep blue to a minimum. Start with neutral base and lip then apply a gold eye shadow to the lid; fill the upper and lower waterline with a black kohl pencil, then apply a dark metallic blue or deep dark aqua marine underneath the lash line. For a more dramatic evening look, don’t be afraid to too bring the blue deep underneath the lash line.
2.  Aqua marine is a great colour to enhance a tan, so this is a great holiday look. Apply a basic brown matte eye shadow to the socket line; then follow with a strong metallic aqua marine on the lid, really layer the colour up. For extra intensity fill the water line with a metallic brown eye liner, Mac Teddy is perfect. Then use a metallic brown under the lash line and blend well. Follow with lots of black mascara; a bit of bronzer on the cheek’s, nose and fore head. Finish with a slick of clear lipstick.

3.  Bold block colours look great on dark skinned girls; Mac liquidlast liner in blue horizon is perfect for creating a Dolce Vita flick. Make sure you take the colour right down to the top lash line and look down to create a good shape. This can take a bit of practice…. Finish with a strip lash, lots of mascara and a chocolate lip gloss.

4.  For a bold evening look; that isn’t too over the top, try Estee Lauders new pure collection by Tom Pecheux. Apply the navy eye shadow to the entire lid, into the socket and the lower lash line. Then use the black eye shadow at the corner of the eye and then along the top line. Fill in the waterline with a navy pencil and finish with lots of black mascara. This is a great alternative to the Smokey eye and is straight of the catwalks.

5.       For those of you who are scared of colour, keep it really simple. Line your waterline with Mac minted eye liner. Then add some cream blush to the apples of the cheek, Bobbi Brown pot rouge in tan is perfect. Finish with a slick of sheer fuchsia lip gloss.


Stun in the Sun

I thought I would do a simple summer look that’s pretty, quick and easy…

1. Nobody wants a full coverage foundation in the summer its best to keep it light and natural Estee Lauders day wear plus multi protect with a tint release formula is perfect. Not only does this moisturise but it protects the skin as it has a SPF 15 and it will change and blend in colour if you get a tan, a great summer staple.

2. If you need a to conceal keep it light and light reflective pop a bit of Touche Eclat on the under eye and around the nose and chin if needed.

3. Give yourself a glow with Bobbi Brown Pot Rouge for lips and cheeks go for blushed rose which is a gorgeous browny pinky colour perfect for summer. Keep it simple and use your fingers applying it to the apples of your cheeks, smile and apply!

4. Add a bit of colour with Mac’s Minted eye Kohl apply this to the bottom water line to make your eyes pop, this colour looks great with a tan and it’s low maintenance  in the summer sun.

5. Curl your lashes to really open out your eyes and finish with a coat of waterproof mascara Max Factor lash lift will last all day and give you great volume in just one coat.

6. Finish with Rimmel’s royal gloss in yummy a lovely sheer lippy that’s easy to apply.

A look that should be accompanied by a nice glass of Rose!

Tom Pecheux Estee Lauder collection

Gorgeous, gorgeous, gorgeous is the only way I can describe the work of Estee Lauders new creative director Tom Pecheux a make up artist who knows how to flatter a woman not cover or conceal.

Since becoming creative make up director of Estee Lauder Pecheux has been working on his new Pure Colour night collection which was first launched at Derek Lams autumn/winter 2010 show which was the first time Estee Lauder had sponsored a show.  Combining a vibrant navy and beautiful black to create strong sultry eyes see below…

Derek Lam Fall 2010 Ready-to-Wear

Also available but not until  August will be the  48 new pure colour eye shadow which will be available in four different long lasting fade resistant finishes Matte, satin, luminous and metallic.

“Make up is such a fashion accessory” says Pecheux…. One we can all afford!!

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