How To Apply Foundation

Photo credit Andres De Lara. Make- up Victoria Bond @ Caren

Photo credit Andres De Lara. Make- up Victoria Bond @ Caren

I’m going to explain how I apply foundation this pretty much works for most skin with a few adjustments. I always make sure I throughly prep the skin I like to do this myself I rarely get assistants to do it. I like to get the feel of the skin and apparently I have healing hands.

This prep is so important you will never get a beautiful base without it! So what do I do?

I. Cleanse of course make sure all make-up and dirt is removed.

2. Facial oil massage I spend at least five minutes manipulating the skin with the facial oil. Models/ Celebrities really appreciate this time and care. The skin loves it and literally comes to life.

3. I then put on a moisturiser the amount depends on the skin and how it’s feeling. Generally you can tell if the skin needs more or less. If you have applied too much moisturiser it will sit on top of the skin. Leave it five mins if its still sitting on top tissue it off.

4. Lip balm the lips.

So now the skin is ready for the base. I will do another post on all the different types of foundation on the market.

I apply foundation with with either a standard foundation brush, a soft rounded brush or my fingers. It depends on what foundation I’m using and the texture of the skin. Its worth experimenting to see which works for you!

Apply small amounts at a time never overload the brush or face with product. Work from the inside out. Try to apply in natural day light or a well lit room.

I will be honest I only really like liquid foundation. The only dry formula foundation I use is the Bobbi Brown sticks and I tend to only use them for grooming and darker skin tones. This is a personal choice as I like super dewy natural looking skin. I try to use very little base and concealer. Never cover good skin! If the skin isn’t good be clever with coverage.

I look at the skin and see where the foundation is needed, covering any redness around the nose on the chin and darkness around the under eye. Sometimes I might cover the whole face with a very light coverage just for colour and finish.

The lighter more liquid foundations such as Mac Face and body are best applied with a standard foundation brush. A slightly thicker liquid foundation such as the Burberry healthy glow works really well with a soft rounded brush. This brush really allows you to buff product into the skin.

Foundation shouldn’t be seen when people look at you they should just see perfect skin. Perfect skin will look great with a light coverage. If its bad follow the same steps but spot conceal in the areas that need it with a soft brush. Mac mineralise powder is really good to finish off bad skin. It smooths over any imperfections and lasts well.

Once the foundation is on I would powder the t zone only with Jurlique rose silk powder. I’m not a big fan of powder as I find it can make the skin look heavy.

I will do another post on concealers and powders shortly.

How to chose the right colour foundation.

Generally department stores have bad lighting so when you go to get colour matched there is usually a yellow light beaming down on you. This can effect your colour matching, but a well trained make-up artist should be aware of this. Always try the foundation on your face. The skin is different colours on the hands and neck. Try three similar colours and see which one disappears and blends into the skin. That’s he one to take! If you are in between colours do go lighter its more flattering. Be aware that the skin will change colour in summer and winter. It’s best to have two different colours for season changes.

I basically like skin to look like skin not over made up!

So as I’m so fussy here are my favs

1. My ulitmate –  Mac face and body £21.50 mac.co.uk. I have used this my whole career I LOVE it. its lightweight, dewy, waterproof, it can be used on the body, the colours are amazing. It works well on anybody particularly good on mature skin it puts life into it.

2. Chanel Vitalumiere £30 chanel.com This has slightly more coverage than face and body but it still has that lovely dewy finish I love. This is popular with celebrities as its luxe and they like the feel of it. This would work well for a wedding or a big event.

3. Mac Pro longwear foundation £25 mac.co.uk I use this on commercials where the base as to last all day and I might not. be able to step in for touch ups.I use the soft round brush to buffer it in.

4. Mac Mineralize moisture foundation £28 mac.co.uk I use this on super perfect skin on camera it looks incredible. Its definitely not for problem skin as it reflects any blemishes.

5. Burberry fresh glow foundation £35 burberry.com. This is new in my kit but I really like it. It has more coverage than my normal foundations but it looks really beautiful with  a heavy moisturiser underneath and buffered in with the round brush. Lovely formula and great colours. It’s quite easy to use and there would be little concealing needed after using it.

Hope this helps VB.xx

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Get The Look ‘Doing Time’ Vogue Italia

Photographer – Matilda Temperley

Stylist Katy Kingston @ Era, Hair and Make-up Victoria Bond using Paul Mitchell and Mac Pro, Model Morven @Premier

http://www.vogue.it/en/photovogue/Portfolio/0434dfbc-09eb-4baf-8e03-588819de37d9/Image

When I received the mood board for this shoot I was instantly excited, and began to design looks that would be fitting to the shoot. I wanted it to be slightly bonkers but beautiful Alice in wonderland meets clockwork orange at an English garden party….if you get my drift…

Morven the model has the most beautiful pale skin and lovely thick hair – perfect for the look I wanted to create.

Hair

I wanted to create a lot of fuzz a cloudy effect which I could then pin up and down make bigger, smaller and create shapes with it. Firstly at home I pre-curled hair wefts with small babyliss tongs just in case Morven’s hair needed filling. On the day I prepped Morven’s hair with Paul Mitchell Sculpting foam, I was very generous with this and completely covered the hair in it, I then dried it in with my Parlux hair dryer. I then used the small babyliss tongs to curl small sections from the root to the tip, spraying on Paul Mitchell Hold me tight before and after curling. Once I had curled all the hair I left it to set then started the make-up.

Make-up

Skin Prep – Cleansed with crealine Bioderma, moisturise with Astalift jelly (the perfect make-up base) lips prepped with Dr Lipp ( It’s important to condition the lips at the start of the make-up especially if the model has any dryness. 

Base – Mac strobe cream on highlighted areas. Chanel aqua Lumniere in 10 Clair this foundation is just amazing on super pale skin I love it. Under eye and any small blemishes Mac pro longwear concealer in nc15. Again I am in love with this product the coverage and finish is fantastic no other product needs to be added all day.

Brows – brushed up with Mac brow set in clear then filled with Mac slate eye shadow .

Eyes- graphic cat eye created with Mac Black track gel eye liner. No mascara on the top lashes just the bottom I used Maybelline one by one, I then placed a dot and a dash underneath the eye using the black track gel, then finished with a few long Eyelure individual lashes on the bottom lash line.

cheeks – contoured with Illamasqua cream pigment in hollow perfect on pale skin, highlighted with Fardel powder in silver. I used a lot of this as I really wanted the highlights to stand out.

lips – I used several different Mac lipsticks throughout the shoot ranging from silver glitter to matte orange.which is why it was so important to prep the lips first!

Later on in the shoot I added Bobbi Brown Longwear cream eye shadow in copper to the remaining part of the eye up to the eyebrow

after finishing the make-up I then went back to the hair I pulled out the curls and back combed added more Paul Mitchell hold me tight hair spray to create volume and fuzz. I then used sectioning clips to create different shapes with the hair throughout the shoot.

Have a go with this look and let me know how you get on!

Skin Care

Make-up will only look good if your skin is in great condition, this is what I tell all my clients. Good skin care is vital but not the only contributing factor. Drinking lots of water, fresh air, good diet and plenty of sleep will keep you young and fresh. 

The Rules

1. Always remove make-up before bed, the skin needs time to rest and repair and lets face it keeping it on is just plain skanky!!

2. Use a good cleanser – My favorite is Bioderma only available from French pharmacy’s (and ebay) this is a very gentle water like cleanser favoured by Make-up artists and models. It can also be used to correct any make-up mistakes you may make. I also like Ren no.1 purity balm, DHC deep cleansing oil and Liz Earle cleanse and polish.

3. Ex foliate – at least once a week – this gets rid of any dead skin cells prevents pores from becoming blocked and leaves an all round clean feeling. Dermologica microfoliant this is gentle and will suit all skin types.

4. Moisturise – Essential for happy hydrated skin. These creams won’t make you look younger but they will keep your skin supple and make-up ready. I like Darphin and Decleor both are oil based and really work. They also do oils and balms which are lovely at night and can really improve skin in six weeks.

5. Eye Cream – If you are over twenty five an eye cream should also be part of your regime. Remember to use a tiny amount about the size of a grain of rice and pat gently from the inner corner to the outer corner. Using too much eye cream can have the reverse effect and cause ageing so be careful this is a very delicate area. Sublimage by Chanel is expensive but amazing.

6. Face Masks – Just once a week its nice to give your skin a bit of extra help, look at you skin and see what it needs? Is it blemished? try Ren Clear calm anti-blemish mask. Do your Pores need minimising? Try Ren Pore min detox mask.Does it need a quick fix? try Sisley express flower gel face mask this mask nourishes and brightens in three minutes. Now we all have three minutes in a day.

7. Sunscreen – protect your skin even in winter I have a factor 50 on all year round. La Roche Posay do a lovely light fluid for the face in 50 which is great.

8. Don’t forget your lips there’s nothing worse than chapped lips. Keep them kissable with creme de la mer lip balm, Carmex or my fav Lanosil (tit cream).

Stay happy, healthy and abide by the rules and I promise you skin will be amazing in six weeks time!

Best Airport Buy’s

If you are off on your hols soon and want a list of best buys, like my friend Emma then read on.
1. Chanel Sublimage a total treat, really luxe but knock a naught off to your partner.
2. Laura Mercier tinted moisturizer, a nice alternative to foundation for your hols.
3. Mac Bronzer, to pump up the glow.
4. YSL touch eclat Y not this is a cult classic concealer, although I find it works better as a highlighter.
5. Dior show Mascara in waterproof to keep your lashes full by the pool.
6. Bobbi Brown long lasting cream eyeshadow in Burnished. These creams are fool proof and can be applied with a finger and they do last all day.
7. Lancome juicy tubes these gorg glosses are the epitomey of summer, and they tast great to. Go for any colour or better still get the mini multipack!

Chanel Vitalumiere Aqua Foundation

I have just received a sample of this foundation and I think it’s gorgeous. Really light it just glides on to the skin like silk. The finish is sheer, and lovely. A real treat. If you are looking for a second skin like foundation, that’s leaves you looking radiant, this is the one for you…

I think this will be finding it’s way into my kit.

Ruby the Movie

I couldn’t resist posting this little film produced by my best friend Peter T Breen and starring my beloved dog Ruby. Pete has used all of the out takes from the light series fashion film we worked on last week, I’m sure you will all agree Ruby is a star!! The only problem is since the making of this film Ruby won’t leave the house without full Chanel Pro luminere coverage, contouring and three sets of eyelashes thank god I’m on maternity leave or she would never get walked. I have been up since 6am separating the blue M&M’s!

Monaco Grand Prix

It is that time of year when the Monaco grand prix kicks off bringing with it a circus of glitz, glamour and the biggest yachts ever this is a place where length and frontage really count.

Now I am not a fan of formula 1 I don’t get it to me it seems rather pointless almost like a dog chasing its tail accept its dangerous and expensive… I have had first hand experience of the Monaco grand prix and all I can say about the whole weekend was its noisy and stressful…

I was working of course as Monaco is really not my scene I’m not rich and I like to think I’m not tacky!! I think at one point Monaco was beautiful as old buildings can still be scene through the modern mirage that has been built up around the old soul of the town, its a shame really but progress is progress.

At the time I was working for Debeers, Diamond trading company and Steinmetz who wanted to use the glamorous backdrop to promote their diamonds. I have to say they had some amazing pieces needless to say security was high as one earring could be worth in excess of 100k! Steinmetz at the time owned a very large pink diamond and it was sensational very large and very beautiful apparently it can take years to cut a stone that large! I couldn’t resist touching it as I thought this is probably as close as I will ever come to a rock this size!!

Helena Christensen wore the pink and she looked amazing I bet she was nervous as that it one piece of jewellery not to be lost.

The Monaco look – A tan is essential but fake it the last thing a Monaco dolly wants is to age I suggest a St Tropez spray tan extra dark think George Hamilton. Remember more is more here and low maintenance girls need not apply full coverage is a must to be as flawless as a Debeers diamond I suggest applying Vita Luminere by Chanel with a brush then correct any problem areas like the under eye around the nose and chin with Laura Mercier camouflage concealer. Set this with a translucent powder Chanel Crystaline is perfect.

Eyes keep them sparkly and long wearing after all this is a party place use Bobbi Brown longwear cream shadow in Bellini all over the eye and right up to the brow bone follow with Burnished on the lid and into the socket line. Groom the eyebrows and fill in any gaps with an angled brush and powder suitable to your eyebrow colour, remember its usually two shades lighter than you think!! Curl the lashes, if you have straight lashes apply the mascara first then curl if not curl then apply two coats of Maybelline extreme lash mascara in black and opt for the waterproof!

Cheeks pop a bit of Penny Lane by Nars on the apples of the cheeks for a sexy glow… Lips I think should make a statement go for a bright fuchsia Rimmel do a lovely long lasting lipstick in their colour show off range go for shocking pink and make a statement. Just remember to carry the lippy and a compact with you for touch ups and watch the invites to the best parties just roll in!!