How To Apply Concealer.

Photo credit Cameron James Wilson. Hair and Make-up Victoria Bond @ Caren.

Photo credit Cameron James Wilson. Hair and Make-up Victoria Bond @ Caren.

So if you have read my other posts you now should have a fabulous new skin care regime and a new foundation. You should also be able to apply the foundation! so once you have a nice base the next step is to conceal. I have several different concealers in my kit depending on skin type, age and colour. I will list my favourites later.

Most people need a little bit extra on top of foundation/tinted moisturiser/bare skin. If I have a model with amazing skin I may only use concealer where it’s needed. Always remember don’t cover good skin! For those with more mature skin the more make-up you wear the older you will look.

Under eye

This is the number one place that nearly everybody needs a bit of help. If the darkness is really bad a colour corrector maybe needed as a first step. on white skin with dark purplish marks apply a light peach. Bobbi Brown does great creamy colour correctors. I use a Mac 224 brush to softly buffer in the concealer so it becomes part of the skin. I use this method for all under eye concealing. If you have black or Asian skin a orange or mustard yellow corrector with help with darkness. Once you have applied a colour corrector then move onto a normal concealer. (you may not need to colour correct just conceal) In order to knock out dark circles the concealer must be two shades lighter than your foundation/skin colour. This will brighten and lift the eye area and also start the contouring process. I always conceal in a triangle shape from the start of the eye to the end. But I don’t take the concealer right up to the lash line as this can bring the eye down. I do add a bit to the inner corner. if the eye still isn’t popping I may add a bit of Touch Eclat or Mac mineralise powder for extra ping. I then waft a tiny amount of powder over to set. Do not go too light on the under eye as this will look ridiculous and glow on pictures!

Nose, Chin, Forehead.

Using the same 224 brush but different concealer I usually use Laura Mercier secret concealer. I cover any redness if any on nose, chin and forehead. Using the same gentle buffering method. You should see perfect skin not product! This should be roughly the same colour as your foundation.

Spots

We all get them from time to time some of us all the time! if you do have an issue with them I always recommend going to see a dermatologist and getting your hormone levels checked at the Doctors. Bad skin shouldn’t be suffered! So I  like to use either the Laura Mercier that I mentioned above or a Mac pro long wear. I use the same buffering method as above with the 224. I find using a concealer one shade lighter than the foundation the best it seems to knock out the redness and blend in better. I may pat, pat with the brush until it looks right. Of course you can do nothing about covering raised spot. I do believe you can have them injected with hydrocortisone to get rid! But i think thats extreme!

If you wanted to make your nose look smaller a line of concealer down the bridge of the nose could do this. Just make sure you blend well. This can also be done on the chin and forehead. I will cover contouring and highlighting in another post!

Anything else I don’t like the look of I just waft the magic 224 over it!

My Top Five Concealers

1. Mac Pro Longwear concealer £17 maccosmetics.co.uk This is my fav I use it on shoots all the time. It has great coverage, longevity and colour. Its great on young skin not so great on more mature skin.

2. Laura Mercier camouflage concealer £26.50 Space Nk. This comes with a colour corrector on one side and the concealer on the other so very handy. This concealer is slightly dryer but also works well on the face and under the eye. If applied correctly i.e. buffered in it works well on young and old skin. This is a good buy as its a good all rounder.

3 Bobbi Brown Creamy concealer £19 This is great on more mature skin but again it needs to be buffered in to get the best from it. Its also good on tattoo’s.

4. Estee Lauder Maximum Cover £26.55 Debenhams This is a real favourite in fashion and at the shows. Its actually a foundation but a full coverage one. but used as a concealer especially on good skin it looks incredible. The camera loves it! I personally use this on my under eye, around my nose and chin.

5. YSL Touche Eclat £25 House of Fraser. I use this as a highlighter or if the under eye needs a bit of extra ping. Used on its own to conceal its very weak. This one needs to be part of a team for maximum effect. I would use this on top of cheek bones, down bridge of the nose, bow of lip sides of forehead and under eye.

Hope this helps!

VB.xx

How To Apply Foundation

Photo credit Andres De Lara. Make- up Victoria Bond @ Caren

Photo credit Andres De Lara. Make- up Victoria Bond @ Caren

I’m going to explain how I apply foundation this pretty much works for most skin with a few adjustments. I always make sure I throughly prep the skin I like to do this myself I rarely get assistants to do it. I like to get the feel of the skin and apparently I have healing hands.

This prep is so important you will never get a beautiful base without it! So what do I do?

I. Cleanse of course make sure all make-up and dirt is removed.

2. Facial oil massage I spend at least five minutes manipulating the skin with the facial oil. Models/ Celebrities really appreciate this time and care. The skin loves it and literally comes to life.

3. I then put on a moisturiser the amount depends on the skin and how it’s feeling. Generally you can tell if the skin needs more or less. If you have applied too much moisturiser it will sit on top of the skin. Leave it five mins if its still sitting on top tissue it off.

4. Lip balm the lips.

So now the skin is ready for the base. I will do another post on all the different types of foundation on the market.

I apply foundation with with either a standard foundation brush, a soft rounded brush or my fingers. It depends on what foundation I’m using and the texture of the skin. Its worth experimenting to see which works for you!

Apply small amounts at a time never overload the brush or face with product. Work from the inside out. Try to apply in natural day light or a well lit room.

I will be honest I only really like liquid foundation. The only dry formula foundation I use is the Bobbi Brown sticks and I tend to only use them for grooming and darker skin tones. This is a personal choice as I like super dewy natural looking skin. I try to use very little base and concealer. Never cover good skin! If the skin isn’t good be clever with coverage.

I look at the skin and see where the foundation is needed, covering any redness around the nose on the chin and darkness around the under eye. Sometimes I might cover the whole face with a very light coverage just for colour and finish.

The lighter more liquid foundations such as Mac Face and body are best applied with a standard foundation brush. A slightly thicker liquid foundation such as the Burberry healthy glow works really well with a soft rounded brush. This brush really allows you to buff product into the skin.

Foundation shouldn’t be seen when people look at you they should just see perfect skin. Perfect skin will look great with a light coverage. If its bad follow the same steps but spot conceal in the areas that need it with a soft brush. Mac mineralise powder is really good to finish off bad skin. It smooths over any imperfections and lasts well.

Once the foundation is on I would powder the t zone only with Jurlique rose silk powder. I’m not a big fan of powder as I find it can make the skin look heavy.

I will do another post on concealers and powders shortly.

How to chose the right colour foundation.

Generally department stores have bad lighting so when you go to get colour matched there is usually a yellow light beaming down on you. This can effect your colour matching, but a well trained make-up artist should be aware of this. Always try the foundation on your face. The skin is different colours on the hands and neck. Try three similar colours and see which one disappears and blends into the skin. That’s he one to take! If you are in between colours do go lighter its more flattering. Be aware that the skin will change colour in summer and winter. It’s best to have two different colours for season changes.

I basically like skin to look like skin not over made up!

So as I’m so fussy here are my favs

1. My ulitmate –  Mac face and body £21.50 mac.co.uk. I have used this my whole career I LOVE it. its lightweight, dewy, waterproof, it can be used on the body, the colours are amazing. It works well on anybody particularly good on mature skin it puts life into it.

2. Chanel Vitalumiere £30 chanel.com This has slightly more coverage than face and body but it still has that lovely dewy finish I love. This is popular with celebrities as its luxe and they like the feel of it. This would work well for a wedding or a big event.

3. Mac Pro longwear foundation £25 mac.co.uk I use this on commercials where the base as to last all day and I might not. be able to step in for touch ups.I use the soft round brush to buffer it in.

4. Mac Mineralize moisture foundation £28 mac.co.uk I use this on super perfect skin on camera it looks incredible. Its definitely not for problem skin as it reflects any blemishes.

5. Burberry fresh glow foundation £35 burberry.com. This is new in my kit but I really like it. It has more coverage than my normal foundations but it looks really beautiful with  a heavy moisturiser underneath and buffered in with the round brush. Lovely formula and great colours. It’s quite easy to use and there would be little concealing needed after using it.

Hope this helps VB.xx

How To Cleanse Effectively.

Photo credit Lou Denim. Hair and Make-up Victoria Bond @ Caren Model Annie Budgen.

Photo credit Lou Denim. Hair and Make-up Victoria Bond @ Caren Model Annie Budgen.

Cleansing the skin is a really important, this keeps the skin healthy and sets the stage for make-up. It’s really important to use the right cleanser for the job in hand and according to your skin type. I think the most common mistake is to use a cleanser that is too harsh. or worse than that using wipes! When people tell me they use wipes my whole body recoils in horror! Wipes are ok for  quick cleanse now and again, but used on a regular basis can be damaging to skin and worse still cause wrinkles. So girls if you want to stay youthful put them away for emergencies only.

Do try not to sleep in make-up. Night time is when the body repairs itself. So it’s best to make sure the skin can breath so it can renew. This is also important if you want to keep a fresh youthful complexion.

I also recommend using good quality cotton wool (I like Boots own brand). I always wet mine first so its gentler on the skin.

If you do wear heavy make-up or waterproof mascara I would recommend using an oil based cleanser specifically for eyes. This will just melt away makeup and cause less damage in the delicate eye are.

I will talk about deeper cleansing and exfoliating in another post.

The following cleansers are my personal favourites…

1. Bioderma Sensibibio H20 – £4.50 100ml Lloyds Pharmacy. This was always the make-up artists little secret as you could only buy it in Paris. But now it is widely available in the UK. This is always in my kit I panic if its not! It brilliant it’s gentle I don’t know anybody that is allergic to it. It’s good for all skins but perfect for sensitive or dry skin. Its also non rinse. I find its also great for makeup corrections and sharpening a cat eye flick. The downside its not great at removing big make-ups if I’m doing a beauty shoot I always have a Bobbi Brown make-up remover on hand. (see below)

2. Bobbi Brown Instant Long-Wear Make-up Remover £18 House of Fraser.  So if I’m doing a beauty shoot I will use this to remove the eye makeup. It’s still very gentle but it’s specifically for waterproof or long-wear make-up. Its still safe if you wear contact lenses! So I would recommend having this on hand for big make-ups and if you wear waterproof mascara.

3. Kiehls Supremely Gentle Eye Make-up Remover £11.41 Nordstrom. This is what I personally use to remove my make-up. Its super gentle and it doesn’t sting. I like the creamy formula. My skin always feels clean without a tight sensation.

4. Darphin Azahar Cleansing Micellar Water £23 darphin.co.uk. This is another go to cleanser for me. I use this on myself and it is also in my kit. Its again good for sensitive skin. It softens, refreshes and comforts skin. Pricey but worth it! Models always ask what this is as they like the feeling of it on their skin.

Keep it clean girls! VB.x

Get The Look ‘Doing Time’ Vogue Italia

Photographer – Matilda Temperley

Stylist Katy Kingston @ Era, Hair and Make-up Victoria Bond using Paul Mitchell and Mac Pro, Model Morven @Premier

http://www.vogue.it/en/photovogue/Portfolio/0434dfbc-09eb-4baf-8e03-588819de37d9/Image

When I received the mood board for this shoot I was instantly excited, and began to design looks that would be fitting to the shoot. I wanted it to be slightly bonkers but beautiful Alice in wonderland meets clockwork orange at an English garden party….if you get my drift…

Morven the model has the most beautiful pale skin and lovely thick hair – perfect for the look I wanted to create.

Hair

I wanted to create a lot of fuzz a cloudy effect which I could then pin up and down make bigger, smaller and create shapes with it. Firstly at home I pre-curled hair wefts with small babyliss tongs just in case Morven’s hair needed filling. On the day I prepped Morven’s hair with Paul Mitchell Sculpting foam, I was very generous with this and completely covered the hair in it, I then dried it in with my Parlux hair dryer. I then used the small babyliss tongs to curl small sections from the root to the tip, spraying on Paul Mitchell Hold me tight before and after curling. Once I had curled all the hair I left it to set then started the make-up.

Make-up

Skin Prep – Cleansed with crealine Bioderma, moisturise with Astalift jelly (the perfect make-up base) lips prepped with Dr Lipp ( It’s important to condition the lips at the start of the make-up especially if the model has any dryness. 

Base – Mac strobe cream on highlighted areas. Chanel aqua Lumniere in 10 Clair this foundation is just amazing on super pale skin I love it. Under eye and any small blemishes Mac pro longwear concealer in nc15. Again I am in love with this product the coverage and finish is fantastic no other product needs to be added all day.

Brows – brushed up with Mac brow set in clear then filled with Mac slate eye shadow .

Eyes- graphic cat eye created with Mac Black track gel eye liner. No mascara on the top lashes just the bottom I used Maybelline one by one, I then placed a dot and a dash underneath the eye using the black track gel, then finished with a few long Eyelure individual lashes on the bottom lash line.

cheeks – contoured with Illamasqua cream pigment in hollow perfect on pale skin, highlighted with Fardel powder in silver. I used a lot of this as I really wanted the highlights to stand out.

lips – I used several different Mac lipsticks throughout the shoot ranging from silver glitter to matte orange.which is why it was so important to prep the lips first!

Later on in the shoot I added Bobbi Brown Longwear cream eye shadow in copper to the remaining part of the eye up to the eyebrow

after finishing the make-up I then went back to the hair I pulled out the curls and back combed added more Paul Mitchell hold me tight hair spray to create volume and fuzz. I then used sectioning clips to create different shapes with the hair throughout the shoot.

Have a go with this look and let me know how you get on!

Get Sliver Medallist Lizzie Armistead’s Adidas Village Wear look

A couple of weeks ago I was lucky enough to work with Lizzie Armistead modelling the Stella McCartney Adidas Village wear range. This was for the evening standard and shot in the Olympic village, as a member of the general public I was very lucky to get in! Lizzie was absolutely charming and a joy to make up here is a run down of the products I used.

I started by tying Lizzie’s hair back into a high pony tail I used Paul Mitchell Hold me tight hair spray to secure and keep away any fly away’s.

Skin prep – Cleanse with crealine Bioderma, moisturise with Astalift jelly (I find this gives the best base for make-up, it sinks in almost immediately) and leaves the skin lovely and plump and ready for foundation. 

Lizzie has amazing skin so I just used a light coverage of Mac Face and Body, Laura Mercier camoflarge concealer on the under eye and on any small blemishes/redness. I then set with a little bit of Mac prep and prime powder.

Eyebrows – groomed then filled in with a taupe pencil from Medina in Milan (my fav pencils)

Eyes- I used Bobbi Brown long wear cream eye shadow in slate just on the eyelid, I then used Laura Mercier eye caviare in Black on the top lash line , Bobbi Brown taupe eyshadow on the lower lash line,really blended to open up the eye, beige pencil on the inner water line then finished with two coats of Maybelline one by one volume express mascara in black, combing through each coat with a Mac fan brush.

Cheeks- Contoured with Mac’s Bone beige powder blush (another of my favs).

Lips- Dr Lipp for natural shine.

I think Lizzie looks lovely try this look for yourself it’s simple, quick and easy, let me know how you get on.Image

Maybelline Gel Eye Liner

I wanted to try this new eyeliner to compare it to the Bobbi Brown long-lasting gel and the Mac black track. To be honest I wasn’t expecting much and I really only bought it because I liked the look for the brush.
For £.7.98 including the brush it’s a must have item. I have only tried it on myself so far, but I’m impressed. The gel glides beautifully and it doesn’t dry straight away giving you a bit of time to perfect the classic flick. The brush allows for accuracy and perfection.
It’s also fairly durable I have had the liner on all day and it’s still going strong. It’s warm outside and I would have expected some smudging.
I am impressed I give this eyeliner nine out of ten, I think it might be better than it’s more expensive competitors. Well done Maybelline!

Best Airport Buy’s

If you are off on your hols soon and want a list of best buys, like my friend Emma then read on.
1. Chanel Sublimage a total treat, really luxe but knock a naught off to your partner.
2. Laura Mercier tinted moisturizer, a nice alternative to foundation for your hols.
3. Mac Bronzer, to pump up the glow.
4. YSL touch eclat Y not this is a cult classic concealer, although I find it works better as a highlighter.
5. Dior show Mascara in waterproof to keep your lashes full by the pool.
6. Bobbi Brown long lasting cream eyeshadow in Burnished. These creams are fool proof and can be applied with a finger and they do last all day.
7. Lancome juicy tubes these gorg glosses are the epitomey of summer, and they tast great to. Go for any colour or better still get the mini multipack!