How To Shape Eye Brows

Eyebrows frame your face. They should not be the first thing you notice when you look in the mirror. If they are then you have probably got them wrong. Firstly I would like to make your life easier don’t over pluck or wax. The eyebrows you are born with is the brow you should keep. Minimal plucking only. I would pluck any hairs in between the brow nobody wants a mono brow and any strays around the natural shape. Also remember brows are sisters not twins. So don’t obsess over slightly different brows.

Generally if you have big gorgeous thick eyebrows like Cara D you will have an eye and face shape that will suit this. So don’t pluck! If like me you have light sparse eyebrows you will probably have red or very blonde hair. You may like me have small eyes. A barely there brow or a bleach brow will make your eyes look bigger. So what I’m trying to say keep the natural shape and just brush and fill where appropriate.

So below I have done a little demo on how I fill eyebrows. I have quite sparse brows so they are more difficult to fill. If you have gorgeous thick brows you will probably just have to brush them up with brow gel and you’re done!

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3.FullSizeRender[3] 4. FullSizeRender[4]FullSizeRender[1] copy5. I think this looks better but still soft and natural.

IMG_6574Never do this!!! Toothbrush eyebrows over plucked!!

1. Brush brows up and to the side with brow gel or hairspray and a toothbrush. Thick brows may only need this step. Groom until you are happy with the shape. The brow will go into a natural shape if you keep brushing it up and out.

2. If brows are sparse they may require filling in. I like to use pencils my favourites are Mac Fling, Lingering and stud. I also like the Burberry eyebrow pencils. Always fill in with a pencil lighter than your brow colour for a more natural finish. Make sure the colour you are using is ashy or greyish. I find this works so much better. Use light feathery strokes in the direction of the hair. Groom through for a blended natural finish. No scouse brows please they are horrendous they offend my eyes.

3. apply more brow gel lightly to hold in place.

4. Keep it natural you will look so much better!

5. If you have over plucked try to grow them back its actually less work no more plucking!

I find tweezerman tweezers are the best for removing strays. If you want to wax Nair Argan Oil has just launched an ultra precision roll on eyebrow wax that is fab! Easy to use and leaves skin super soft.

Hope this helps!

VB.xx

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How To Apply Concealer.

Photo credit Cameron James Wilson. Hair and Make-up Victoria Bond @ Caren.

Photo credit Cameron James Wilson. Hair and Make-up Victoria Bond @ Caren.

So if you have read my other posts you now should have a fabulous new skin care regime and a new foundation. You should also be able to apply the foundation! so once you have a nice base the next step is to conceal. I have several different concealers in my kit depending on skin type, age and colour. I will list my favourites later.

Most people need a little bit extra on top of foundation/tinted moisturiser/bare skin. If I have a model with amazing skin I may only use concealer where it’s needed. Always remember don’t cover good skin! For those with more mature skin the more make-up you wear the older you will look.

Under eye

This is the number one place that nearly everybody needs a bit of help. If the darkness is really bad a colour corrector maybe needed as a first step. on white skin with dark purplish marks apply a light peach. Bobbi Brown does great creamy colour correctors. I use a Mac 224 brush to softly buffer in the concealer so it becomes part of the skin. I use this method for all under eye concealing. If you have black or Asian skin a orange or mustard yellow corrector with help with darkness. Once you have applied a colour corrector then move onto a normal concealer. (you may not need to colour correct just conceal) In order to knock out dark circles the concealer must be two shades lighter than your foundation/skin colour. This will brighten and lift the eye area and also start the contouring process. I always conceal in a triangle shape from the start of the eye to the end. But I don’t take the concealer right up to the lash line as this can bring the eye down. I do add a bit to the inner corner. if the eye still isn’t popping I may add a bit of Touch Eclat or Mac mineralise powder for extra ping. I then waft a tiny amount of powder over to set. Do not go too light on the under eye as this will look ridiculous and glow on pictures!

Nose, Chin, Forehead.

Using the same 224 brush but different concealer I usually use Laura Mercier secret concealer. I cover any redness if any on nose, chin and forehead. Using the same gentle buffering method. You should see perfect skin not product! This should be roughly the same colour as your foundation.

Spots

We all get them from time to time some of us all the time! if you do have an issue with them I always recommend going to see a dermatologist and getting your hormone levels checked at the Doctors. Bad skin shouldn’t be suffered! So I  like to use either the Laura Mercier that I mentioned above or a Mac pro long wear. I use the same buffering method as above with the 224. I find using a concealer one shade lighter than the foundation the best it seems to knock out the redness and blend in better. I may pat, pat with the brush until it looks right. Of course you can do nothing about covering raised spot. I do believe you can have them injected with hydrocortisone to get rid! But i think thats extreme!

If you wanted to make your nose look smaller a line of concealer down the bridge of the nose could do this. Just make sure you blend well. This can also be done on the chin and forehead. I will cover contouring and highlighting in another post!

Anything else I don’t like the look of I just waft the magic 224 over it!

My Top Five Concealers

1. Mac Pro Longwear concealer £17 maccosmetics.co.uk This is my fav I use it on shoots all the time. It has great coverage, longevity and colour. Its great on young skin not so great on more mature skin.

2. Laura Mercier camouflage concealer £26.50 Space Nk. This comes with a colour corrector on one side and the concealer on the other so very handy. This concealer is slightly dryer but also works well on the face and under the eye. If applied correctly i.e. buffered in it works well on young and old skin. This is a good buy as its a good all rounder.

3 Bobbi Brown Creamy concealer £19 This is great on more mature skin but again it needs to be buffered in to get the best from it. Its also good on tattoo’s.

4. Estee Lauder Maximum Cover £26.55 Debenhams This is a real favourite in fashion and at the shows. Its actually a foundation but a full coverage one. but used as a concealer especially on good skin it looks incredible. The camera loves it! I personally use this on my under eye, around my nose and chin.

5. YSL Touche Eclat £25 House of Fraser. I use this as a highlighter or if the under eye needs a bit of extra ping. Used on its own to conceal its very weak. This one needs to be part of a team for maximum effect. I would use this on top of cheek bones, down bridge of the nose, bow of lip sides of forehead and under eye.

Hope this helps!

VB.xx

How To Apply Foundation

Photo credit Andres De Lara. Make- up Victoria Bond @ Caren

Photo credit Andres De Lara. Make- up Victoria Bond @ Caren

I’m going to explain how I apply foundation this pretty much works for most skin with a few adjustments. I always make sure I throughly prep the skin I like to do this myself I rarely get assistants to do it. I like to get the feel of the skin and apparently I have healing hands.

This prep is so important you will never get a beautiful base without it! So what do I do?

I. Cleanse of course make sure all make-up and dirt is removed.

2. Facial oil massage I spend at least five minutes manipulating the skin with the facial oil. Models/ Celebrities really appreciate this time and care. The skin loves it and literally comes to life.

3. I then put on a moisturiser the amount depends on the skin and how it’s feeling. Generally you can tell if the skin needs more or less. If you have applied too much moisturiser it will sit on top of the skin. Leave it five mins if its still sitting on top tissue it off.

4. Lip balm the lips.

So now the skin is ready for the base. I will do another post on all the different types of foundation on the market.

I apply foundation with with either a standard foundation brush, a soft rounded brush or my fingers. It depends on what foundation I’m using and the texture of the skin. Its worth experimenting to see which works for you!

Apply small amounts at a time never overload the brush or face with product. Work from the inside out. Try to apply in natural day light or a well lit room.

I will be honest I only really like liquid foundation. The only dry formula foundation I use is the Bobbi Brown sticks and I tend to only use them for grooming and darker skin tones. This is a personal choice as I like super dewy natural looking skin. I try to use very little base and concealer. Never cover good skin! If the skin isn’t good be clever with coverage.

I look at the skin and see where the foundation is needed, covering any redness around the nose on the chin and darkness around the under eye. Sometimes I might cover the whole face with a very light coverage just for colour and finish.

The lighter more liquid foundations such as Mac Face and body are best applied with a standard foundation brush. A slightly thicker liquid foundation such as the Burberry healthy glow works really well with a soft rounded brush. This brush really allows you to buff product into the skin.

Foundation shouldn’t be seen when people look at you they should just see perfect skin. Perfect skin will look great with a light coverage. If its bad follow the same steps but spot conceal in the areas that need it with a soft brush. Mac mineralise powder is really good to finish off bad skin. It smooths over any imperfections and lasts well.

Once the foundation is on I would powder the t zone only with Jurlique rose silk powder. I’m not a big fan of powder as I find it can make the skin look heavy.

I will do another post on concealers and powders shortly.

How to chose the right colour foundation.

Generally department stores have bad lighting so when you go to get colour matched there is usually a yellow light beaming down on you. This can effect your colour matching, but a well trained make-up artist should be aware of this. Always try the foundation on your face. The skin is different colours on the hands and neck. Try three similar colours and see which one disappears and blends into the skin. That’s he one to take! If you are in between colours do go lighter its more flattering. Be aware that the skin will change colour in summer and winter. It’s best to have two different colours for season changes.

I basically like skin to look like skin not over made up!

So as I’m so fussy here are my favs

1. My ulitmate –  Mac face and body £21.50 mac.co.uk. I have used this my whole career I LOVE it. its lightweight, dewy, waterproof, it can be used on the body, the colours are amazing. It works well on anybody particularly good on mature skin it puts life into it.

2. Chanel Vitalumiere £30 chanel.com This has slightly more coverage than face and body but it still has that lovely dewy finish I love. This is popular with celebrities as its luxe and they like the feel of it. This would work well for a wedding or a big event.

3. Mac Pro longwear foundation £25 mac.co.uk I use this on commercials where the base as to last all day and I might not. be able to step in for touch ups.I use the soft round brush to buffer it in.

4. Mac Mineralize moisture foundation £28 mac.co.uk I use this on super perfect skin on camera it looks incredible. Its definitely not for problem skin as it reflects any blemishes.

5. Burberry fresh glow foundation £35 burberry.com. This is new in my kit but I really like it. It has more coverage than my normal foundations but it looks really beautiful with  a heavy moisturiser underneath and buffered in with the round brush. Lovely formula and great colours. It’s quite easy to use and there would be little concealing needed after using it.

Hope this helps VB.xx

Valentines Day Make-up Ideas

Classic red Lip and flick. Photo credit Catherine Harbour Hair and Make-up Victoria Bond @ Caren Agency.

Classic Red lip and flick

Soft Smokey Eye and neutral lip

Soft Smokey Eye and neutral lip

Dramatic eye and bright lip

Dramatic eye and bright lip

Photo credit Catherine Harbour. Hair and Make-up Victoria Bond @ Caren Agency. model Hannah Cooper @ Next.

With Valentines day fast approaching I thought I would give you some make-up ideas for that special day. I think there is a look here that would suit everybody! Be brave if you normally go for a natural look why not try a red lip. If you normally wear a strong make-up go natural. Shake it up experiment have fun and enjoy make-up! I do!

VB.xx

How To Apply Mascara.

Photo credit Darren Black Make-up Victoria Bond @ Caren Agency Hair John MacPherson.

Photo credit Darren Black Make-up Victoria Bond @ Caren Agency Hair John MacPherson.

I’m trying to answer all the questions I’m so frequently asked as a make-up artist. I would also like my blog to become a place where people can come to get good solid advice.

Obviously the above image is editorial and have used a very exaggerated false lash for maximum effect. but I thought it would be a fun image to go alongside this post.

first of all I’m going to explain how to get lovely thick long lashes. I will then recommend my top four. If I recommend a product I either use it on shoots or its a personal favourite. Either way its been road tested and comes up to scratch.

So my steps to fabulous lashes

1. Always make sure you curl them first. This opens up the eye and makes lashes look instantly longer. Try to do this as close to the lash line as possible. Give the curlers a little squeeze and almost pump those lashes up! Shu Uemura eyelash curlers are very good from £15

2. Once the lashes are curled start on the mascara. Make sure the mascara isn’t too old. Try to change it every 3-4 months. This will ensure good results and less chance of getting an eye infection! Try not to pump the wand in and out into much as this lets in air and can dry the mascara out.

3. I like nice thick full lashes so I very rarely wipe any excess mascara on a tissue. But if you want a skinner more natural lash then get rid of the excess. Maybe use brown rather than black and just coat the top lashes.

4. Once you have the magic wand in your hand get working! so for the top lashes make sure you get the mascara right at the roots from there wiggle up in a zig zag motion covering the lashes from root to tip. Do this and repeat several times until you get the desired effect. I always say give them another coat even if you think you have finished.

5. If they do become a bit clumpy then always have a fan brush on hand to comb them through. Wiggle it through the lashes until smooth. Fan brush available from MAC £19.00

6. Some people do the bottom lashes first to prevent the top lashes going onto the eye. I always do the bottom lashes last I just make sure the top lashes are dry before I start the bottom.

7. So for bottom lashes turn the brush vertically and gently move the wand along the lashes coating them from root to tip. You may find you need the fan brush for the bottom lashes. This will help keep them clump free and in the right place.

8. If you do have very straight lashes very carefully re-curl them with the eyelash curlers once the mascara has been applied. be gentle and do this slowly as you don’t want to pull out any lashes.

9. chuck away those falsies who needs them now!

My Top four Mascara’s

1.  Maybelline the colossal go extreme mascara £6.99 Boots  (Boots always seem to have a 3 for 2 offer on) This is my all time favourite mascara its always in my kit. It’s cheap it gives full fat black lashes, it lasts all day and it doesn’t flake. The waterproof doesn’t budge!

2. Mac studio sculpt lash £14.50 I’m really loving the Mac mascara’s at the moment. I used them in Milan last season at the shows. This mascara in particular has an interesting brush that helps to define and create fullness.

3. Burberry bold lash mascara £23 net- a- porter. This is definitely more of a luxury mascara the packaging is super slick and would look good in your hand bag. Not only does the packaging look good the mascara is fantastic it coats the lashes and its easy to build up. It lasts well and doesn’t flake.

4. Dior show black out £24.50 John Lewis. This is an old favourite of mine. But it has been reformulated for a more intense thick black look. A luxury price but worth it!