How To Apply Concealer.

Photo credit Cameron James Wilson. Hair and Make-up Victoria Bond @ Caren.

Photo credit Cameron James Wilson. Hair and Make-up Victoria Bond @ Caren.

So if you have read my other posts you now should have a fabulous new skin care regime and a new foundation. You should also be able to apply the foundation! so once you have a nice base the next step is to conceal. I have several different concealers in my kit depending on skin type, age and colour. I will list my favourites later.

Most people need a little bit extra on top of foundation/tinted moisturiser/bare skin. If I have a model with amazing skin I may only use concealer where it’s needed. Always remember don’t cover good skin! For those with more mature skin the more make-up you wear the older you will look.

Under eye

This is the number one place that nearly everybody needs a bit of help. If the darkness is really bad a colour corrector maybe needed as a first step. on white skin with dark purplish marks apply a light peach. Bobbi Brown does great creamy colour correctors. I use a Mac 224 brush to softly buffer in the concealer so it becomes part of the skin. I use this method for all under eye concealing. If you have black or Asian skin a orange or mustard yellow corrector with help with darkness. Once you have applied a colour corrector then move onto a normal concealer. (you may not need to colour correct just conceal) In order to knock out dark circles the concealer must be two shades lighter than your foundation/skin colour. This will brighten and lift the eye area and also start the contouring process. I always conceal in a triangle shape from the start of the eye to the end. But I don’t take the concealer right up to the lash line as this can bring the eye down. I do add a bit to the inner corner. if the eye still isn’t popping I may add a bit of Touch Eclat or Mac mineralise powder for extra ping. I then waft a tiny amount of powder over to set. Do not go too light on the under eye as this will look ridiculous and glow on pictures!

Nose, Chin, Forehead.

Using the same 224 brush but different concealer I usually use Laura Mercier secret concealer. I cover any redness if any on nose, chin and forehead. Using the same gentle buffering method. You should see perfect skin not product! This should be roughly the same colour as your foundation.

Spots

We all get them from time to time some of us all the time! if you do have an issue with them I always recommend going to see a dermatologist and getting your hormone levels checked at the Doctors. Bad skin shouldn’t be suffered! So I  like to use either the Laura Mercier that I mentioned above or a Mac pro long wear. I use the same buffering method as above with the 224. I find using a concealer one shade lighter than the foundation the best it seems to knock out the redness and blend in better. I may pat, pat with the brush until it looks right. Of course you can do nothing about covering raised spot. I do believe you can have them injected with hydrocortisone to get rid! But i think thats extreme!

If you wanted to make your nose look smaller a line of concealer down the bridge of the nose could do this. Just make sure you blend well. This can also be done on the chin and forehead. I will cover contouring and highlighting in another post!

Anything else I don’t like the look of I just waft the magic 224 over it!

My Top Five Concealers

1. Mac Pro Longwear concealer £17 maccosmetics.co.uk This is my fav I use it on shoots all the time. It has great coverage, longevity and colour. Its great on young skin not so great on more mature skin.

2. Laura Mercier camouflage concealer £26.50 Space Nk. This comes with a colour corrector on one side and the concealer on the other so very handy. This concealer is slightly dryer but also works well on the face and under the eye. If applied correctly i.e. buffered in it works well on young and old skin. This is a good buy as its a good all rounder.

3 Bobbi Brown Creamy concealer £19 This is great on more mature skin but again it needs to be buffered in to get the best from it. Its also good on tattoo’s.

4. Estee Lauder Maximum Cover £26.55 Debenhams This is a real favourite in fashion and at the shows. Its actually a foundation but a full coverage one. but used as a concealer especially on good skin it looks incredible. The camera loves it! I personally use this on my under eye, around my nose and chin.

5. YSL Touche Eclat £25 House of Fraser. I use this as a highlighter or if the under eye needs a bit of extra ping. Used on its own to conceal its very weak. This one needs to be part of a team for maximum effect. I would use this on top of cheek bones, down bridge of the nose, bow of lip sides of forehead and under eye.

Hope this helps!

VB.xx

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How To Apply Foundation

Photo credit Andres De Lara. Make- up Victoria Bond @ Caren

Photo credit Andres De Lara. Make- up Victoria Bond @ Caren

I’m going to explain how I apply foundation this pretty much works for most skin with a few adjustments. I always make sure I throughly prep the skin I like to do this myself I rarely get assistants to do it. I like to get the feel of the skin and apparently I have healing hands.

This prep is so important you will never get a beautiful base without it! So what do I do?

I. Cleanse of course make sure all make-up and dirt is removed.

2. Facial oil massage I spend at least five minutes manipulating the skin with the facial oil. Models/ Celebrities really appreciate this time and care. The skin loves it and literally comes to life.

3. I then put on a moisturiser the amount depends on the skin and how it’s feeling. Generally you can tell if the skin needs more or less. If you have applied too much moisturiser it will sit on top of the skin. Leave it five mins if its still sitting on top tissue it off.

4. Lip balm the lips.

So now the skin is ready for the base. I will do another post on all the different types of foundation on the market.

I apply foundation with with either a standard foundation brush, a soft rounded brush or my fingers. It depends on what foundation I’m using and the texture of the skin. Its worth experimenting to see which works for you!

Apply small amounts at a time never overload the brush or face with product. Work from the inside out. Try to apply in natural day light or a well lit room.

I will be honest I only really like liquid foundation. The only dry formula foundation I use is the Bobbi Brown sticks and I tend to only use them for grooming and darker skin tones. This is a personal choice as I like super dewy natural looking skin. I try to use very little base and concealer. Never cover good skin! If the skin isn’t good be clever with coverage.

I look at the skin and see where the foundation is needed, covering any redness around the nose on the chin and darkness around the under eye. Sometimes I might cover the whole face with a very light coverage just for colour and finish.

The lighter more liquid foundations such as Mac Face and body are best applied with a standard foundation brush. A slightly thicker liquid foundation such as the Burberry healthy glow works really well with a soft rounded brush. This brush really allows you to buff product into the skin.

Foundation shouldn’t be seen when people look at you they should just see perfect skin. Perfect skin will look great with a light coverage. If its bad follow the same steps but spot conceal in the areas that need it with a soft brush. Mac mineralise powder is really good to finish off bad skin. It smooths over any imperfections and lasts well.

Once the foundation is on I would powder the t zone only with Jurlique rose silk powder. I’m not a big fan of powder as I find it can make the skin look heavy.

I will do another post on concealers and powders shortly.

How to chose the right colour foundation.

Generally department stores have bad lighting so when you go to get colour matched there is usually a yellow light beaming down on you. This can effect your colour matching, but a well trained make-up artist should be aware of this. Always try the foundation on your face. The skin is different colours on the hands and neck. Try three similar colours and see which one disappears and blends into the skin. That’s he one to take! If you are in between colours do go lighter its more flattering. Be aware that the skin will change colour in summer and winter. It’s best to have two different colours for season changes.

I basically like skin to look like skin not over made up!

So as I’m so fussy here are my favs

1. My ulitmate –  Mac face and body £21.50 mac.co.uk. I have used this my whole career I LOVE it. its lightweight, dewy, waterproof, it can be used on the body, the colours are amazing. It works well on anybody particularly good on mature skin it puts life into it.

2. Chanel Vitalumiere £30 chanel.com This has slightly more coverage than face and body but it still has that lovely dewy finish I love. This is popular with celebrities as its luxe and they like the feel of it. This would work well for a wedding or a big event.

3. Mac Pro longwear foundation £25 mac.co.uk I use this on commercials where the base as to last all day and I might not. be able to step in for touch ups.I use the soft round brush to buffer it in.

4. Mac Mineralize moisture foundation £28 mac.co.uk I use this on super perfect skin on camera it looks incredible. Its definitely not for problem skin as it reflects any blemishes.

5. Burberry fresh glow foundation £35 burberry.com. This is new in my kit but I really like it. It has more coverage than my normal foundations but it looks really beautiful with  a heavy moisturiser underneath and buffered in with the round brush. Lovely formula and great colours. It’s quite easy to use and there would be little concealing needed after using it.

Hope this helps VB.xx