How To Apply Concealer.

Photo credit Cameron James Wilson. Hair and Make-up Victoria Bond @ Caren.

Photo credit Cameron James Wilson. Hair and Make-up Victoria Bond @ Caren.

So if you have read my other posts you now should have a fabulous new skin care regime and a new foundation. You should also be able to apply the foundation! so once you have a nice base the next step is to conceal. I have several different concealers in my kit depending on skin type, age and colour. I will list my favourites later.

Most people need a little bit extra on top of foundation/tinted moisturiser/bare skin. If I have a model with amazing skin I may only use concealer where it’s needed. Always remember don’t cover good skin! For those with more mature skin the more make-up you wear the older you will look.

Under eye

This is the number one place that nearly everybody needs a bit of help. If the darkness is really bad a colour corrector maybe needed as a first step. on white skin with dark purplish marks apply a light peach. Bobbi Brown does great creamy colour correctors. I use a Mac 224 brush to softly buffer in the concealer so it becomes part of the skin. I use this method for all under eye concealing. If you have black or Asian skin a orange or mustard yellow corrector with help with darkness. Once you have applied a colour corrector then move onto a normal concealer. (you may not need to colour correct just conceal) In order to knock out dark circles the concealer must be two shades lighter than your foundation/skin colour. This will brighten and lift the eye area and also start the contouring process. I always conceal in a triangle shape from the start of the eye to the end. But I don’t take the concealer right up to the lash line as this can bring the eye down. I do add a bit to the inner corner. if the eye still isn’t popping I may add a bit of Touch Eclat or Mac mineralise powder for extra ping. I then waft a tiny amount of powder over to set. Do not go too light on the under eye as this will look ridiculous and glow on pictures!

Nose, Chin, Forehead.

Using the same 224 brush but different concealer I usually use Laura Mercier secret concealer. I cover any redness if any on nose, chin and forehead. Using the same gentle buffering method. You should see perfect skin not product! This should be roughly the same colour as your foundation.

Spots

We all get them from time to time some of us all the time! if you do have an issue with them I always recommend going to see a dermatologist and getting your hormone levels checked at the Doctors. Bad skin shouldn’t be suffered! So I  like to use either the Laura Mercier that I mentioned above or a Mac pro long wear. I use the same buffering method as above with the 224. I find using a concealer one shade lighter than the foundation the best it seems to knock out the redness and blend in better. I may pat, pat with the brush until it looks right. Of course you can do nothing about covering raised spot. I do believe you can have them injected with hydrocortisone to get rid! But i think thats extreme!

If you wanted to make your nose look smaller a line of concealer down the bridge of the nose could do this. Just make sure you blend well. This can also be done on the chin and forehead. I will cover contouring and highlighting in another post!

Anything else I don’t like the look of I just waft the magic 224 over it!

My Top Five Concealers

1. Mac Pro Longwear concealer £17 maccosmetics.co.uk This is my fav I use it on shoots all the time. It has great coverage, longevity and colour. Its great on young skin not so great on more mature skin.

2. Laura Mercier camouflage concealer £26.50 Space Nk. This comes with a colour corrector on one side and the concealer on the other so very handy. This concealer is slightly dryer but also works well on the face and under the eye. If applied correctly i.e. buffered in it works well on young and old skin. This is a good buy as its a good all rounder.

3 Bobbi Brown Creamy concealer £19 This is great on more mature skin but again it needs to be buffered in to get the best from it. Its also good on tattoo’s.

4. Estee Lauder Maximum Cover £26.55 Debenhams This is a real favourite in fashion and at the shows. Its actually a foundation but a full coverage one. but used as a concealer especially on good skin it looks incredible. The camera loves it! I personally use this on my under eye, around my nose and chin.

5. YSL Touche Eclat £25 House of Fraser. I use this as a highlighter or if the under eye needs a bit of extra ping. Used on its own to conceal its very weak. This one needs to be part of a team for maximum effect. I would use this on top of cheek bones, down bridge of the nose, bow of lip sides of forehead and under eye.

Hope this helps!

VB.xx

How To Apply Foundation

Photo credit Andres De Lara. Make- up Victoria Bond @ Caren

Photo credit Andres De Lara. Make- up Victoria Bond @ Caren

I’m going to explain how I apply foundation this pretty much works for most skin with a few adjustments. I always make sure I throughly prep the skin I like to do this myself I rarely get assistants to do it. I like to get the feel of the skin and apparently I have healing hands.

This prep is so important you will never get a beautiful base without it! So what do I do?

I. Cleanse of course make sure all make-up and dirt is removed.

2. Facial oil massage I spend at least five minutes manipulating the skin with the facial oil. Models/ Celebrities really appreciate this time and care. The skin loves it and literally comes to life.

3. I then put on a moisturiser the amount depends on the skin and how it’s feeling. Generally you can tell if the skin needs more or less. If you have applied too much moisturiser it will sit on top of the skin. Leave it five mins if its still sitting on top tissue it off.

4. Lip balm the lips.

So now the skin is ready for the base. I will do another post on all the different types of foundation on the market.

I apply foundation with with either a standard foundation brush, a soft rounded brush or my fingers. It depends on what foundation I’m using and the texture of the skin. Its worth experimenting to see which works for you!

Apply small amounts at a time never overload the brush or face with product. Work from the inside out. Try to apply in natural day light or a well lit room.

I will be honest I only really like liquid foundation. The only dry formula foundation I use is the Bobbi Brown sticks and I tend to only use them for grooming and darker skin tones. This is a personal choice as I like super dewy natural looking skin. I try to use very little base and concealer. Never cover good skin! If the skin isn’t good be clever with coverage.

I look at the skin and see where the foundation is needed, covering any redness around the nose on the chin and darkness around the under eye. Sometimes I might cover the whole face with a very light coverage just for colour and finish.

The lighter more liquid foundations such as Mac Face and body are best applied with a standard foundation brush. A slightly thicker liquid foundation such as the Burberry healthy glow works really well with a soft rounded brush. This brush really allows you to buff product into the skin.

Foundation shouldn’t be seen when people look at you they should just see perfect skin. Perfect skin will look great with a light coverage. If its bad follow the same steps but spot conceal in the areas that need it with a soft brush. Mac mineralise powder is really good to finish off bad skin. It smooths over any imperfections and lasts well.

Once the foundation is on I would powder the t zone only with Jurlique rose silk powder. I’m not a big fan of powder as I find it can make the skin look heavy.

I will do another post on concealers and powders shortly.

How to chose the right colour foundation.

Generally department stores have bad lighting so when you go to get colour matched there is usually a yellow light beaming down on you. This can effect your colour matching, but a well trained make-up artist should be aware of this. Always try the foundation on your face. The skin is different colours on the hands and neck. Try three similar colours and see which one disappears and blends into the skin. That’s he one to take! If you are in between colours do go lighter its more flattering. Be aware that the skin will change colour in summer and winter. It’s best to have two different colours for season changes.

I basically like skin to look like skin not over made up!

So as I’m so fussy here are my favs

1. My ulitmate –  Mac face and body £21.50 mac.co.uk. I have used this my whole career I LOVE it. its lightweight, dewy, waterproof, it can be used on the body, the colours are amazing. It works well on anybody particularly good on mature skin it puts life into it.

2. Chanel Vitalumiere £30 chanel.com This has slightly more coverage than face and body but it still has that lovely dewy finish I love. This is popular with celebrities as its luxe and they like the feel of it. This would work well for a wedding or a big event.

3. Mac Pro longwear foundation £25 mac.co.uk I use this on commercials where the base as to last all day and I might not. be able to step in for touch ups.I use the soft round brush to buffer it in.

4. Mac Mineralize moisture foundation £28 mac.co.uk I use this on super perfect skin on camera it looks incredible. Its definitely not for problem skin as it reflects any blemishes.

5. Burberry fresh glow foundation £35 burberry.com. This is new in my kit but I really like it. It has more coverage than my normal foundations but it looks really beautiful with  a heavy moisturiser underneath and buffered in with the round brush. Lovely formula and great colours. It’s quite easy to use and there would be little concealing needed after using it.

Hope this helps VB.xx

Face Masks- Six of the best

Photo credit Lou Denim Hair and Make-up Victoria Bond @ Caren. Model Annie Budgen @ Milk.

Photo credit Lou Denim Hair and Make-up Victoria Bond @ Caren. Model Annie Budgen @ Milk.

I love a face mask, there is nothing I like more than a nice bubble bath, a glass of wine and a moisture mask. I can just feel the goodness soaking into my skin and restoring it’s radiance.

In terms of work I like the Sisley Express Flower gel mask this can hydrate skin in three minutes. If my model has been travelling a lot or has just finished fashion week this can turn their skin around in a short period of time. On set I wouldn’t have time to have models sat around with thirty minute face masks on!

Different masks do different jobs some clear the skin, some add moisture, radiance, heat, cool whatever your requirement is there is probably a mask to cover it. I tend to just use either radiance or moisture masks as thats the boost my skin usually needs.

Masks I love

1. Sisley Express Flower Gel £60 sisley-paris.com I have mentioned this already this mask gives you instant moisture in three minutes. Perfect for those on the the go.

2. Sisley Black Rose Cream £95 sisley-paris.com This is my absolute favourite I tend to sleep in this and let it absorb overnight. When I wake up my skin feels plump and rejuvenated.

3. Darphin Youthful Radiance Camellia Mask £45 darphin.co.uk. This is instant youth in a tube guaranteed to put the glow back in tired dull skin. Another fav!

4. Kiehls Earth Pore Cleansing masque £21.50 kiehls.co.uk. This masque is for those with oily skin. It matitifies  skin and helps to reduce and refine the look of pores.

5. Liz Earle Deep Cleansing Mask £15.75 uk.lizearle.com. This is a clay mask which is great for drawing out any impurities leaving the skin balanced and calm.

6. Avocado from 75p at local supermarkets. Mash up a super ripe avocado and pop it on you face just like a normal face mask. This is a cheap and natural moisture mask!

Exfoliation – My Top Tips and Recommendations.

Photo credit Efi Zachou Hair and Make-up Victoria Bond @ Caren Agency.

Photo credit Efi Zachou Hair and Make-up Victoria Bond @ Caren Agency.

Good skincare is the key to great skin. There are other factors such as diet, exercise and sleep but I will get to that in later posts. What I am trying to do with my blog is give you the basics and build up from there. Basically if you have good skin and eyebrows make-up will look good on you!

Even with regular cleansing the skin will still have a dead skin build up that needs to be swept away by a good quality exfoliator. Not too gentle and not too harsh. I like to use a Darphin exfoliator I find it has the right level of grit for my face. I recommend exfoliating once week to keep skin clear, bright and smooth. It can also help combat fine lines and reduce the size of pores. It also allows any skin care you are using to work as it’s removed all the impurities from the skins surface.

Tips for using Exfoliators

I usually use a fifty pence piece size of the exfoliant and rub it between my palms. I cover my face and neck avoiding the delicate eye area. I use my hands in circular motions all over my face. I usually do this for a few minutes if it starts to hurt you’ve gone too far! Take some time around the nose and chin!

My Top four Exfoliators

1. Darphin Age-Defying Dermabrasion £52 darphin.co.uk. This is my personal favourite that I use every week. It is suitable for sensitive skin due to its creamy formula. But also powerful enough to reduce the look of pores, age spots, discolouration and heliport out wrinkles!

2. Sisley Gentle Facial Buffing Cream £49 sisley-paris.com. This lovely exfoliator is good for all types of skin but again good for those with sensitive skin that might be put off from using an exfoliator. It soothes and softens skin making it ready for a mask or a fake tan.

3. Liz Earle gentle face exfoliator £15.75 uk.lizearle.com. This exfoliator is from the lovely Liz Earle range. Made with jojoba beads this gentle yet effective exfoliator buffs away impurities and dead skin cells. It’s not suitable for sensitive skin!

4. Origins Never A Dull Moment £25 origins.co.uk. I love this exfoliator it’s an old favourite of mine! in fact I had forgotten about it. It’s made with fruit extracts that help brighten and radiate skin! It smells gorgeous and it’s suitable for all skin types.

VB.xx

Valentines Day Make-up Ideas

Classic red Lip and flick. Photo credit Catherine Harbour Hair and Make-up Victoria Bond @ Caren Agency.

Classic Red lip and flick

Soft Smokey Eye and neutral lip

Soft Smokey Eye and neutral lip

Dramatic eye and bright lip

Dramatic eye and bright lip

Photo credit Catherine Harbour. Hair and Make-up Victoria Bond @ Caren Agency. model Hannah Cooper @ Next.

With Valentines day fast approaching I thought I would give you some make-up ideas for that special day. I think there is a look here that would suit everybody! Be brave if you normally go for a natural look why not try a red lip. If you normally wear a strong make-up go natural. Shake it up experiment have fun and enjoy make-up! I do!

VB.xx

Moisturising – Why it’s important and my recommendations.

Photo credit Lou Denim. Hair and Make-up Victoria Bond. Model Annie Budgen @ Milk.

Photo credit Lou Denim. Hair and Make-up Victoria Bond. Model Annie Budgen @ Milk.

Moisturising is a major part of any skin care routine. It is also key in prepping the base for make-up. You will never be able to get a gorgeous base if you don’t moisturise first. I have already talked about facial oils in another post. I tend to use oils and moisturisers together for maximum effect.

For work I use heavier moisturisers as I am looking to drench the skin and get rid of any dry patches. I am also using the moisturiser to thin out the foundation create highlights and make the skin look real. The foundation sinks into the skin with the moisturiser creating gorgeous seamless skin. I will talk more about foundation in a later post. I do adjust this for different skin types. You can generally feel if the skin require more or less moisture. If it’s sitting on top of the skin tissue of excess do give it time to absorb first. If it still feels tight add more. Get to know your skin although it will behave differently according to time of year, day, hormonal changes, illness, pregnancy.

When it comes to moisturisers as part of a skin care routine I opt for slightly lighter options. Combined with a facial oil I find this works well for most people. Long term overloading of the skin can cause little white spots known as milia. If you do notice you have these it maybe because your moisturiser is too heavy for your skin.

Un-moisturised skin will just become dry and tight and cause premature ageing over time. To get the most out of your moisturiser try to go for  one that also contains an SPF. So not only are you getting lots of loveliness into your skin you are also being protected from the suns harmful rays. I recommend wearing an SPF all year round.

Its kind of obvious what to do with dry skin but oily skin its not so. I have a theory that there is only one skin complaint and that’s dry skin. Its just that skin reacts in different ways to compensate for this. Some skin just becomes dry, tight and patchy but some skin will kick out oil to dry and compensate for the dryness. Thus people with oily skin tend to have dry patches as well. I always recommend treating oily skin as if it was dry it tends to do the trick! Try it let me know how you get on!

Moisturisers I love!

1. Sisleya Global Anti age by Sisley £269 Selfridges. This is the ultimate in luxury and my personal favourite I use this every morning! Its totally super duper its perfect for my skin not too heavy not too light. Smells divine worth the money if you have it!

2. Welda skin food £9.95 feel unique.com. This is what I’m using in my kit at the moment I love it. Its super thick and sorts out any dry skin patches. It makes the most beautiful base for make-up the highlights are fantastic! It’s so cheap it’s a must have! Oh it smells nice too models always ask what it is!!

3. Bioderma sensibio anti redness moisturiser £15 Escentual. This is super light weight so if you are prone to breakouts this could be the one for you. I tend to use this for grooming as it takes redness away which means I can put less base on! Which is much better for men.

4. Dr Hauschka rose day cream £28 Selfridges This is an old favourite of mine and always in my kit. Its made out of oils and lots of lovely ingredients. It nourishes the skin leaves gorgeous highlights and smells Moisture. it now comes in an extra rich formula that would-be perfect for winter!

How To Cleanse Effectively.

Photo credit Lou Denim. Hair and Make-up Victoria Bond @ Caren Model Annie Budgen.

Photo credit Lou Denim. Hair and Make-up Victoria Bond @ Caren Model Annie Budgen.

Cleansing the skin is a really important, this keeps the skin healthy and sets the stage for make-up. It’s really important to use the right cleanser for the job in hand and according to your skin type. I think the most common mistake is to use a cleanser that is too harsh. or worse than that using wipes! When people tell me they use wipes my whole body recoils in horror! Wipes are ok for  quick cleanse now and again, but used on a regular basis can be damaging to skin and worse still cause wrinkles. So girls if you want to stay youthful put them away for emergencies only.

Do try not to sleep in make-up. Night time is when the body repairs itself. So it’s best to make sure the skin can breath so it can renew. This is also important if you want to keep a fresh youthful complexion.

I also recommend using good quality cotton wool (I like Boots own brand). I always wet mine first so its gentler on the skin.

If you do wear heavy make-up or waterproof mascara I would recommend using an oil based cleanser specifically for eyes. This will just melt away makeup and cause less damage in the delicate eye are.

I will talk about deeper cleansing and exfoliating in another post.

The following cleansers are my personal favourites…

1. Bioderma Sensibibio H20 – £4.50 100ml Lloyds Pharmacy. This was always the make-up artists little secret as you could only buy it in Paris. But now it is widely available in the UK. This is always in my kit I panic if its not! It brilliant it’s gentle I don’t know anybody that is allergic to it. It’s good for all skins but perfect for sensitive or dry skin. Its also non rinse. I find its also great for makeup corrections and sharpening a cat eye flick. The downside its not great at removing big make-ups if I’m doing a beauty shoot I always have a Bobbi Brown make-up remover on hand. (see below)

2. Bobbi Brown Instant Long-Wear Make-up Remover £18 House of Fraser.  So if I’m doing a beauty shoot I will use this to remove the eye makeup. It’s still very gentle but it’s specifically for waterproof or long-wear make-up. Its still safe if you wear contact lenses! So I would recommend having this on hand for big make-ups and if you wear waterproof mascara.

3. Kiehls Supremely Gentle Eye Make-up Remover £11.41 Nordstrom. This is what I personally use to remove my make-up. Its super gentle and it doesn’t sting. I like the creamy formula. My skin always feels clean without a tight sensation.

4. Darphin Azahar Cleansing Micellar Water £23 darphin.co.uk. This is another go to cleanser for me. I use this on myself and it is also in my kit. Its again good for sensitive skin. It softens, refreshes and comforts skin. Pricey but worth it! Models always ask what this is as they like the feeling of it on their skin.

Keep it clean girls! VB.x